Where are spark plugs located on a 1990 kawasaki ninja ex500?
Right up under the tank.
8 people found this useful
Answer . The spark plugs are hidden underneath the coils which are part of the spark plug cap for each plug. After you remove each coil you will see the plug deep underneath. The coils themselves are quite inconspicuous but you will find them if you look carefully.
Answer . \narnt all spark plugs just below the valve covers on all engines ???
1) The location of spark plugs 456 are under the plastic shield in front of the engine. It takes an 8mm socket to remove the three bolts holding the shield once the shield is removed you will see a coil for each spark plug. Use the 8mm socket and remove the coil and rubber boots. You will now see th…e spark plug (note there are not any spark plug wires). 2) The location of spark plugs 123 are located to the rear of the eng. You have to remove the air intake manifold in order to get to the spark plus. Remove the throttle wire then remove the other items on top of the intake manifold. 3) Loosen all the bolts holding the manfold. 8mm socket-- I think three in front and three in the middle. Remove the EGR valve mounts so you can slide the manifold out. Disconnet all vacuum lines from manifold and the air filter inlet closet to manifold. Just take a general look and ensure you have all wiring and tubing disconnected then slide the manifold off the eng and EGR valve. NOW MAKE SURE you cover all intake holes (leading into the engine) with paper towels to prevent droping screws etc into the engine. Then follow step 1 above ... END Three located on each head. i can tell from your answer you have NEVER changed the plugs on a 2.3. probably have never even SEEN them. first off, the front bank is 2-4-6. the rear(right) bank is 1-3-5. and the only 8mm bolts i can think of are the ones holding each coil on, 2 per coil. the plastic "miller cycle" cover is held on by 2 10mm cap nuts. the front intercooler is 12mm. and the right bank plugs are WAY more complicated to get at than that simpleton explanation, plus the intake manifold does NOT have to be removed. (MORE)
Screwed into the heads. There are 3 across the front, and 3 across the back.
Answer . \nThis infor is listed in your owner's manual and on a placard under the hood.
Follow the sparkplug wires down past the valve covers -they should be at the end of each wire
first, take off the mirrors and upper fairing support (10mm), remove the front and rear seats, remove the four bolts holding down the fuel tank, (2X10mm) (2X8mm),remove the fuel tank, remove the airbox and filter, you will see the cylinder head exposed, you will see the 4 wires and plug caps going d…own into the cylinder head, these are where the 4 plugs are located, hope this helps (MORE)
there is a smaller round socket kind of like the ones tire shops use to reach inside custom rims its the right bolt size or socket size but skinny enough to fit in the hole! example is when you see the lugs on certain rims.a standard star wrench would'nt fit but it takes a special skinny socket made… to fit in smaller holes! go visit a tire shop they can show you what im talking about... (MORE)
It should be under the seat if its like most bikes.. - It's under the frame. There is an access panel on the right side of the bike, under the tank. Remove both seats, the entire tank cover and then the battery access panel. Now you can remove the battery (must unplug two cables to get it out).
Kawasaki stopped making the ZX9 in 2003. If it is any other year you have to take the gas tank off & the air box to access the plugs.
I had to lift the gas tank up about 4 inches then support it, or have someone help you hold it out of the way. Use only the sparkplug socket from the bikes tool kit, because any other sparkplug socket the walls are too thick to get down to the hex part of the plug. Good luck! Does anybody know the e…ngine oil capacity? I put in 3 quarts and it still looks low. Phil in Greenville (MORE)
there is four bolts inside of the finder two on both sides they should be about one foot from the break drumb so good luck be careful with the bolts don't strip them.
I'm guessing the same as most other bikes... under the gas tank.. take a look at this video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ct31s5JNhyM. The spark plugs are located under the gas tank and under the air box. You need to remove the top and bottom of the air box and you will see the plug wires. Be s…ure to reconnect the ram air lines properly or your bike won't run properly above 50 MPH. (MORE)
not sure about those above 500cc but that and the 250 have them under the crankcase... you don't even have to remove any fairings cause the lower has an opening int to allow access to the drain and filter bolts.... on the 1986 ninja 1000 the oil filter is by the exhaust pipe bottom of the engine yo…u have to remove the exhaust to take the filter cover off its a paper filter. (MORE)
As with all engineÃdesigns, the spark plugs are usually locatedabove the engine block on what is called the cylinder head or cam.For motorbike configurations, the engine is usually under the gastank. That would be the first place to look for the spark plug ofthe Mule.
The spark plug gap for a 1998 Kawasaki KX 125 motorcycle is between.6 and .7 mm. This is equal to between .024 and .028 inches.
Owners manual says tire pressure for the 1992 EX500:. For loads up to 215lb front 28psi and rear 32 psi. For loads 215-405lbs front 32psi and rear 36psi
There are two, you will need to remove the tank to reach them on top of the cylinder head cover.
In your tool kit you should have a rench that will fit on the plug. You pull off the spark plug wire and take out the spark plug. Make sure the gap is set right for the new plug and put in in. Do not over tighten.
I don't think that you need to gap the plug if you get a plug that is specific to your bike. Mine has a NGK R6252K-105 in it. I think that is the same type of plug that they come from the factory with. If you're not getting spark then you probably have a fouled plug or something else wrong.
The transmission fluid in most motorcycles (incl. the ex500) is the same as the engine oil. Undo the bolt at the bottom front of the engine, let the oil drain out. Replace the oil filter (mounted on the front of the engine). Replace the drain bolt, and add back about 3.6 quarts of oil.
The spark plug gap for a 1995 Kawasaki Ninja 500 should be setbetween .6 mm and .7 mm. This is equal to being set between .024and .028 inches.
Take off the fenders, then remove the gas tank. You will see the spark plug wires right there on top of the engine, remove those and voila!
The spark plug gap for a 1996 Kawasaki KZ1000 P15 should be set at.032 inches. This is equal to .8 mm.
You have to take the seat off pop the front tops of the back two farings and unbolt the gas tank. Remove the gas tank after turning fuel valve to off and it is in the black box in front of the battery
The VIN number is usually located under the seat on the frame bar to the left. In between the anti-freeze container and the rear of the bike (tail light, signals, ect.). It's on a sticker stuck to the bar.
Here are some plugs that will work with your KX100... Stock - R6252K-105 BR8EIX/BR9EIX/BR10EIX BR9ES/BR8ES BR9EG BR9EYA Hope this helps. Kevin
Take the seat off- your battery is towards the front of that compartment (near the gas tank), right under that pack of wires. You'll be able to see the contacts on either side of the wires and vacuum hoses.
Just a wild guess, but I would start at the top of the heads.......should see a spark plug wire connected to a plug........viola! spark plug.
\nWhat year? I've got a manual for zx600 Ninja 1985-1997 and work on a 1997 model. There is a filter screen on the inside of the tank, built into the other side of the fuel petcock (vacuum operated). Upon disassembly I found two of these very fine screens, which act as fuel filters. Shaped like …towers, one shorter one longer; Probably for reserve. One crumbled in my hand, the other is flexible, but seems intact. I will be installing an in-line filter in the fuel hose after reassembly. Will not bother repairing/replacing the existing filters The fuel filters location inside the tank makes it unacceptable to replace it.\nHope this answers your question! (MORE)
Righty tighty, lefty loosy! Of course you have to get to them first under the gas tank. Should be able to without completely removing the seat. Prop the tank up with a couple of boards under the tank on top of the frame. Should change the air filter (inside the black box right there) when you are do…ing the plugs. Remove the fairings for best access. (MORE)
(5.4L only) On the (5.4L) you will see 8 coil packs. They are in the valve covers. On each side of the engine, on the valve covers, there are four black caps looking things with a bolt holding each one down on the side. Disconnect the wires from those things, which are the coils, and then remove …the small (I believe 10 mm) bolt that holds it down, and then pull up on it. The plugs are under the coils.. ( 4.6L only) On the (4.6L) you will see 2 coil packs . They are in the valve covers. On each side of the engine, on the valve covers, there are four spark plug wires on each side of the engine block. The plugs are under the spark plug wires. (MORE)
Guide to changing the spark plugs for novices (like me) . I just replaced the sparks on my 2001 12R - I'd previously read alot about some people finding it easy and others finding it impossible. I didn't think it was easy, but then again I'm only capable of relatively easy stuff on my 12R (ie oil c…hange, filter clean, pilot jet mot, brake service etc etc). I thought I'd put together this little guide for novices like me that want to attempt it. In all, it took me about 30 minutes per spark. I didn't mess about - I removed the fairing, ram air covers, tank cover, seats and coolant expansion tank. It can be done without removing some of these, but it will be alot easier if you just get them out of your way. The expansion tank can just be unscrewed and left to dangle on the pipes. Don't bother removing it completely. First of all, you will need the special angled tool from the 12R's tool kit. The idea behind this tool is that the bigger end goes down the spark plug tube and locks onto the spark plug, whilst the smaller end is for a spanner or socket set to lock onto. It has to bend in the middle to enable you to get it into the spark tube as the clearance above is not enough to get it in otherwise. Look into the bigger end of the tool and you will see a rubber washer that grips onto the spark plug once it has been unscrewed (else you'd never actually get it out of the tube). Second, obviously get hold of the spark plugs first before attempting the job - I've read conflicting reports about which spark plugs are the correct ones. I still don't know what's right and what's wrong, but I am going to tell you what I found out. First of all, I got hold of the NGK CR9EK sparks as referred to in the manual but was surprised when they looked a little different from the sparks that were already in the bike - the difference was at the top of the spark plug where it latches onto the stick coil and consequently, the stick coil wouldn't fit on properly. Someone else suggested that the CR9EIX were the way to go and I was relieved to find that these had the same upper connection as my existing sparks. You can see the difference between the two at the following internet locations NGK.com - Application Search Results andCR9EKB - NGK PLUGS "C" by chi town choppers , inc . The CR9EIX sparks work like a charm in my bike, but I suspect they have a smaller lifespan because they are not multiground sparks like the ones that came out (I guess that this lenghtens the life of the gap, but I'm not really sure). In summary, I can tell you that the CR9EIX work great in my bike and fit inside the Denso stick coils very securely - but I can't tell you how long they will continue to work for so you might want to check it out a bit more yourself. As some people have said, removing the plastic and rubber covers will make your life easier to get the job done, but I'd recommend you leave them there because they are effectively stopping dirt, moisture and other sh*t getting down the side of the stick coil where it will end up in the top of your engine the minute you take the spark plug out. I noticed moisture on the side of one of my stick coils and (more concerningly) some oil on another (that's a differnent story). OK, so on with the procedure. Looking in at the top of the engine you will see the top of the stick coils coming out of the top. These stick coils have 'Denso" written on the top of them. Before doing anything else, you'll have to pull the 2-wire connector off of the side. It has a little plastic locking tooth on it so you have to press down on the tooth whilst pushing the connector towards the back of the bike. Mine were relatively easy to get off, but I found a small flat blade screw driver made things easier - it was possible to use the screwdriver to press down on the release catch at the same time as pushing it backwards and off. After this you need to get the coil sticks out - the is the single hardest thing to do in this job (at least it was with my bike). Some people have reported that their coil sticks came off easy, well I can tell you that mine were stuck on like a bitch. I'm a little suspicious that some of the folks that can get their stick coils off easy are using the sparks with the different interface type (as described above) which means that the denso stick coils just sit on top of it, rather than gripping on to it. I imagine this will work fine as these high voltages don't need a perfect electrical connection to work - but, I just prefer a solid mechanical connection as the basis of a good, reliable electrical connection. The key to getting the stick coils off is to use a large flat blade screw driver and put it under the connector seat (towards the back of the bike) that sticks out of the side of the coil and then twist the flat-blade to pop the coil off. When you pop off the first coil you instantly realise from the force required that there was no way you were ever going to do it by hand like other people have said they do (like I say, this might be down to the different types of spark plug top). One thing that I noticed is that the plastic cover for the rubber mat has a neat-feature - a little channel under it that allows you to get a flat-blade screwdriver to the middle sparks by putting the screw driver under the piece of the plastic cover that sits in-between the middle and outer sparks (on both sides). After that, you can wrestle out the stick coil. If you do the ones at the outside first you will see how long the stick coil actually is (about 12 cm by memory). The last 4 to 5 CM is rubber and can bend, which is a godsend when you do the ones in the middle (if it was 12cm of plastic, it simply wouldn't be able to come out). OK, the most difficult bit is done. Using the angled tool, you put it into the spark tube and push it as far down as you can by hand. Start turning it anti-clockwise by hand until it locks in position - thus the tool is located. You can then use a wrench or socket set to loosen the first part of the spark off (it shouldn't take much force if the person who installed the sparks used the correct torque). You should then be able to unscrew the rest of it by hand (depending on the size of your hands!). After many, many turns you'll eventually notice it suddenly becomes easier because the spark has come out of the threads. You then pull the tool out and hey presto, there's the spark being held by the tool's rubber washer. Replacement is just the reverse, but it's a good idea to add a little grease to the spark threads before putting them in and spray the stick coil outers with a silicone grease or WD40 before putting them back in the spark tube. The two outer sparks are obviously easier than the inner ones - but you have to wrestle with everything throughout the entire job because it is just so tight. This is why it takes so long. I'm no idiot, but I also am not capable of doing complex stuff on a bike. For my level of expertise, this was a reasonably difficult job the first time around. Like everything though, having done it once I think I would find it quite easy the next time I do it. Hope this helps someone,. (MORE)
on top of the engine there will be four rubber plugs. two of which will be directly connected to the electrical which will only take a 10 mm socket if i remember right. just pull out the plugs and take a look inside and you should see the spark plugs.
the sparkplug is located on top of the piston chamber to ignite the fuel compressed by the piston when the spark goes off
on Harleys they are found on the clutch lever/left side of the motorcyle, in the top of the cylinder heads. you will be able to see the sparkplug cables which will lead you right to the plugs. just pop those off and there they will be.. on Harleys they are found on the clutch lever/left side of the… motorcyle, in the top of the cylinder heads. you will be able to see the sparkplug cables which will lead you right to the plugs. just pop those off and there they will be. (MORE)
That depends. How big is the rider? What is the ambient temperature? How crazy is the rider? How much cocaine did he inhale at lunch? I have a '96 set up as a 'Slab slayer' (Sport Tourer) I run at 70 to 90 just about all day. If you weigh 140 with a brick in your pocket and it's a cool day wi…th very little humidity, the Coke was pretty pure you might see 170ish. Maybe....if everything went right. Motorcycles are in a much higher state of tune then cars. They weigh less also. Because of that there is more difference between two bikes coming off the assembly line right next to one another. The Zx7 is has carbs, While there are advantages to carbs, they do not hold tune as well as fuel injection. Getting them adjusted and synched can add 10 or more MPH to the top end. The "7" is very 'slick'. One of the lowest drag coefficients every for a stock motorcycle. It has OK power and is VERY stable. Great bongers as the lads say. Best front suspension of the 20th century. It is now the 21st century. Forget the motorcycle rags. They exist to get you to buy them. So the comparison tests are pretty much bogus. They could run the same test tomorrow and get different results. The only ones worth reading are the long term tests. Since I have to explain all this too you, you are a newbie. Buy a SV 650. That is an excellent beginner bike. You can sell it in a year or so when you are ready to upgrade. Get it off craigslist and you won't waste a lot of money. Beginners bikes glut the market. Look on the ads and see how many "Ninja" 250's and 500's are for sale. If you have to have an I4 to hang out at the malt shop with, buy a used one. (MORE)
I use 87 octane in my 1993 zx600D. Runs really good and gets a little over 100 hp to the rear wheel.
The Spark plugs on the Ex250 are under the fuel tank, to change them, you'll need to remove it.
Bad sparkplug or Wire. Or worse, bad coil pack or bad CDI or ignition or kill switch.
NGK recommend NGK CR9E with a gap of 0.7mm (alternatively use NGK CR9EIX - iridium electrode for better spark)
I'm using NGK Iridium plugs, CR7EIX with the gap set to 0.7mm, as per the UK NGK website.
i need spark plug gap for my 09 TYREX IF COULD HELP ME OUT PLEASE
The proper gap setting would be .07-.08mm (0.026-0.031in) with a ngk br8eix or br8eg spark plug. The br8eg is much cheaper than the eix and I can't notice the difference in performance only in price. $18 compared to $4. I hope this helps out anyone who wants to know. Source for Gap setting: Kawasaki… owners manual kx250 '03 (MORE)
it depends on the number of cylinders.. if 2 cylinders it has 2 spark plugs if 4 then it has 4.
To give you an accurate answer we need to know which engine your car has.
It will be located on top of the cylinder. if its a scooter look under the seat. You may have to take the side panels off, there should be a thick rubber lead connected to the plug. This should just pull off the top of the spark plug. After that you will need a deep socket to undo the spark plug. us…ually 14mm or 12mm for scooters or bikes. Hope that helps :) (MORE)
The key code will be in one of two spots. The first location will be behind the ignition switch, etched into the black metal housing; think between the ignition switch and front fairing. If you do not see your code there, the lower end of your ignition switch will list this code. With a flashlight a…nd your handlebars turned all the way to the left you can read the key code from looking at the ignition switch from the bottom right of the bike. This info was for a ninja 250/500 since you did not specify (MORE)
Electrode gap: 0.7 - 0.8 mm Spark plug: NGK CR9E For '94 - '04 Kawasaki ZX-7r Source: Haynes Service Manual hope this helps!
gas tank cover comes off. remove battery. use compressed air to blow out debris before taking plugs out. I use a spark plug socket from my tool set with an extension and u-joint. not a difficult job.