What is 2001 Ford Ranger airbag trouble code 46?
From what I can tell, that code refers to a fault in one of the crash sensors at the front of the vehicle. You may want to consult the pro's on this one.
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It is a loose connection under the drivers seat toward the back of the seat. Disconnect it, make sure it is clean and reconnect. That should solve the problem. Hey! This wo…rked for my '99 Ford E250 van too! Thanks! No, sorry. It means get ready to let her off at the next corner. Mike McMac
Answer . Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1443 indicates a failure in the EVAP canister purge valve circuit. The Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Canister Purge (CP) valve contro…ls the flow of vapors from the fuel vapor storage canister to the intake manifold during various engine operating modes. It may need nothing more than a good cleaning, vacuum hose connected or that is leaking, or may need more. I suggest you seek out the services of a good mechanic. Do not just throw parts at this. The code does not mean that any part needs replacing. It just means the EVAP system is being effected.
Trouble code P1451 means: Evaporative Emission System Vent Control Circuit
P0125 - Insufficient Coolant Temperature For Closed Loop Fuel Control Indicates the ECT or CHT sensor has not achieved the required temperature level to enter closed loop oper…ating conditions within a specified amount of time after starting engine. Insufficient warm up time Low engine coolant level Leaking or stuck open thermostat Malfunctioning ECT sensor Malfunctioning CHT sensor Refer to Thermostat Monitor in Section 1, Description and Operation, for system information.
Air Bag code " 42 " - Left Hand Radiator Primary Crash Sensor Feed / Return. Circuit Open
The Airbag Code 36 for a 2001 Ford Taurus is the airbag code forthe Driver Side, Side Airbag. This means that there is either afaulty connection, and wires may need to be clea…ned, or that thedriver side, side airbag needs to be replaced.
P0300 means random misfire detected which probably has to do with the spark plugs or the plug wires
Trouble code P0171 means: Fuel System Too Lean (Cylinder Bank 1)
If your vehicle is 1995 or later, you will need a scanner tool to pull the trouble codes. AutoZone and similar auto parts stores offer free scans. If your vehicle is 1994 or o…lder, you can manually pull the trouble codes. Check out a repair manual (Hayne's or Chilton's) at your local library - chapter 6 has all the details on how to do it; also what each code means and how to trouble shoot.
You find problem and fix it . then the airbag light will go off.Airbag system checks itself and if no problem is found ,light will stay off.I just fixed a 42 on mine .bad co…nnection.There is no reset on airbag monitor system.
intake manifold runner stuck open, bank 1. check the vac. line that runs into the bottom of it. should be under the intake by the fire wall Joel Bones Wilcox's answer.….. +++++++++++++++++++++++++ Okay everyone, I've been getting a code P2004 for a few months now. I drive a 2003 Ford Ranger 2.3 liter. Every time I erase the code it comes back within a quarter mile of driving. The part is called the Intake Manifold Runner Control... (IMRC) I looked everywhere on the internet to show exactly where this part was located to no avail... I drove to my local dealership and they pointed it out to me right away along with the vacuum lines that just fell off the module... The module is made of metal and plastic with one (1) electrical connectors on the bottom and on the back and two (2) vacuum lines connected by a plastic connector on the front of the module connected to the IMRC by crimped metal tabs on the metal housing of the module... The metal component of the IMRC has rusted considerably and the plastic housing that the vacuum lines connect to were crimped to the metal housing. So, when the metal housing rusted away the crimped metal holding the plastic part that the vacuum lines connect to failed and fell off. Below is an actual photo of the rusted part and the vacuum lines that fell off. The metal crimped areas are circled in red... Copy the links to the following images and paste them into your browser's address bar. (Since I cannot upload the images here...) http://www.evil-incarnate.com/images/C360_2011-05-04 17-58-55-b.jpg So, I'm posting these images to hopefully help others. I've circled the part in red in the images below. Cost was 127.00 + 8.58 in taxes Total 135.58 Should only take a whole 5 to 10 minutes to replace. Copy the links to the following images and paste them into your browser's address bar. (Since I cannot upload the images here...) http://www.evil-incarnate.com/images/scan0001-a.jpg http://www.evil-incarnate.com/images/scan0002.jpg Hopefully this post helps someone... The images above will stay for as long as I own my website where they are located... (Since I cannot upload the images here...) +++++++++++++++++++++++++ Here is an updated image after I replaced the IMRC. Took me all but 5 minutes to do this. http://www.evil-incarnate.com/images/C360_2011-05-06 11-11-55.jpg AND upon further inspection of the old part and the new part, the plastic piece where the vacuum hoses were attached was NOT held on by crimped metal tabs. The crimped metal tabs were holding on the metal end which held the plastic piece in place. The plastic piece that the vacuum hoses were attached to was broke at the top and bottom. (The only places it could break.) Very bad design in my opinion. In my opinion the cause for the plastic piece to fail was because of the rust. The rust expanded and caused the plastic to fail and break from stress. Here is two images of the old rusted, broken IMRC after removal. You can clearly see in the images below where the plastic failed and broke. Circled in red. http://www.evil-incarnate.com/images/C360_2011-05-06 11-28-50.jpg You can also see how the rust built up and expanded and obviously caused the part to fail. http://www.evil-incarnate.com/images/C360_2011-05-06 11-29-12.jpg This was one of the easiest fixes I have ever had to do on this truck. Here is how I did it. 1. Disconnected the negative cable from the battery. + - 8mm bolt on my 2003 Ford Ranger - Losen slightly, twist and pull the negative cable off. 2. Removed the 8mm bolt from the IMRC. + - The bolt was slightly rusted but I was easily able to - force the 8mm socket on and remove the bolt from the plastic - intake manifold. 3. Unplugged the electrical connector from the old IMRC. + - Gently so as to not break the tab off the electrical - connector, pull the tab outward with your fingernail or - a small screwdriver and pull gently on the plug not - the wires. 4. Unplugged the vacuum hoses from the plastic on the IMRC. + - Gently twist and pull the vacuum hoses off the IMRC one - by one. Pull the front one off first then the lower. - It is very important to remember which hose is which. - Thoroughly inspect the vacuum hoses for cracks and breaks. I reversed this procedure to install the new IMRC. Too easy... Here is what some of the dealerships said when I called and asked them for an estimate of how much it would cost to have my IMRC put on my truck. Nothing else just labor on installing the IMRC. I was specific. One dealership in Kent, Ohio named Klaben Ford told me on the phone about 1 hour labor, approx. $120 USD Another dealership in Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio named Spitzer Ford told me 2.8 hours labor, approx. $240 USD. They said they would have to remove the plenum/manifold to replace the IMRC. Then they said they would have to re-program the computer as well. He said he does it all the time and has done many... LOL I've never done this before and I did it in my driveway in 5 minutes. Didn't have to remove the plenum. Didn't have to re-program the computer. The check engine light went out as soon as I started the truck. Truck runs like new now. Smooth. Beautiful. Another dealership in Tallmadge, Ohio named Park Ford told me 1.5 to 2 hours labor, approx. $146. A few points to remember... 1. I'm not an ASE certified mechanic... 2. I don't have a big shop or all the expensive tools like the mechanics at the dealerships. 3. I don't have a book telling me how to do the job. 4. I don't work on vehicles for a living. 5. I don't claim to be an expert or a professional auto mechanic 6. I have cheap Craftsman tools, not MAC or SNAP ON. Just because these so called experts have a uniform with their names embroidered on them and buy expensive tools, doesn't mean they are truthful, professionals who just want to help you. They are, in actuality, ASE certified con artists. 90% of the time they will make you believe you need more work than you actually need and that the job will take a lot longer than it actually should. Don't get me wrong, just because you learned something on the internet doesn't mean you're an expert and it doesn't mean the mechanic doesn't know what they're talking about. However, just because the shop foreman tells you something doesn't mean he is telling you the truth either. They're out to make money and that is the prime mover of their struggle, the root of all evil. MONEY. Remember that... Do your homework. Call around. Get estimates. Talk to the mechanics. Read a book. Educate yourself, it won't hurt...
lost battery feed
Cylinder #4 misfire. The cause is usually in the secondary circuit. (You can often smell the catalytic converter trying to process the unburned fuel. If so, that confirms your… problem's electrical, not in your fuel system.) In earlier models, typical cause is high-resistance (bad, internally broken) spark plug wire. In later models, typical cause is a bad coil (coil on plug--COP) for engines so equipped.
Driver side belt pretensioner problem. Check the wiring for good connection.
Trouble code P0402 means:Exhaust gas recirculation flow excessive detected
Yes , a 2002 Ford Ranger has air bags for the driver and front passenger ( Supplemental Restraint System , SRS )