04 f250 dash removal?
In Ford F-250
Remove all screws and it should pop right off.
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It depends on the kind of vehicle. Usually, the flasher is located by the fuse panel, and is round (about 1" in diameter). It has flat spade plugs on the bottom side.
The dash has to be removed which is a HARD job. I suggest taking it to an auto trim ahop.
According to my Haynes manual all you have to do to get at the stereo is remove the center bezel. that is the plastic panel covering the area around the stereo and the climate controls. just grip the plastic between the radio and the climate control panel and pull. make sure to unplug the electrical… connector for the courtesy light before you fully remove the bezel. (MORE)
They are located right in between the where intake manifold ends and the valve cover starts. You must remove a 7mm hex head bolt to remove the coil unit, then unplug the wire for the coil unit for each spark plug, remove the coil unit and you need a special very long spark plug socket to go down int…o the spark plug hole. Beware!!! The 4.6 and 5.4 Ford V-8 engines are known to have the spark plugs break off in the head for no appearent reason whatsoever and without warning. (MORE)
Answer . First, remove the panel below the steering column. The are a few snap-in fasteners.\n. \nThen unscrew the two or three screws along the bottom edge of the plastic dash cover. Now, using a flat blade screwdriver, gently pry around the entire panel. There are are seven or eight clips …all around the panel.\n. \nWhen all is loose, put the car in low gear to get the shift lever out of the way. Also, if you have tilt steering, tilt the wheel down. It should then be easy to move the panel out.\n. \nAlso, before you pull it too far, disconnect the trunk release button from the back of the panel.\n. \nIf by dash, you mean the instrument cluster, you now have to unscrew the screws from the instrument cluster. If you have a column shift, you will have to disconnect the indicator panel (should be two screws) at the bottom of the cluster. The panel will tilt back towards you, and allow you to disconnect the wiring harness. With the gear shift lever down, the cluster should be relatively easy to remove. (MORE)
Answer . I found the info on removeing the factory radio and other info on accessing the dashboard panel interior here at a sienna forum http://www.siennaclub.org/forum/index.php?showtopic=941
Answer . \nThere are several screws: \n2 on the ends under the fuse covers \n2 on the panel under the steering wheel and \n2 by the odometer \nGently pull the face off the dash.\nDon't break off the clips.
you must remove two screws that hold panel in place. one is behind lever that opens door ,the other you have to remove red door light lense on bottom of panel to get to,afterwards just slide up.
The dash on a Hyundai Elantra is held on by several mountingscrews. Remove all the screws found underneath plastic covers, aswell as underneath the dash. Gently pull the dashboard towards thecabin and remove any attached sensors.
With great difficulty! Purchase a shop manual for that vehicle. It will be worth the investment.. The dash should be in 2 or 3 pieces, the first piece that should be removed is where the radio section is...that part should be able to be "popped" out by prying carefully starting from the bottom, and… working your way around to the top. The other section where the dash lights are located should pop out also AFTER removing the screws underneath the dashboard (MORE)
to remove the dash trim around the stero unit, find the screws under the ac/heater controls that are on the trim, to remove the rest of the trim you need to remove the plate around the shifter too, so take the screws out of the shifter's plate. remove the rest of the screws around the trims and you… should be able to pull the trim out of place. (MORE)
I removed mine by first removing the bezel around the Air Conditioning controls. First thing I did was open the door to the storage compartment below the Air controls. Then that part just pops off. There are no screws holding that on. After you get that off there is one screw on the right hand si…de that is holding the top bezel in place. Note: the bezel that is around the radio runs all the way up the dash and will come off as one part. After you remove the one screw, it should pop right off. Next, there will be four screws holding the radio in the dash. Take out those screws and the radio will come right out. (MORE)
Basically there are bolts every where. The main bolts that you have to take out are on the drivers side. I was a while ago that I did it but it was really easy. take out all the bolts that are visible and then dash is mostly held on by clips. It kind of feels like you are going to break something bu…t it does require a lot of force to take dash off. Don't pull to hard though. You also have to remove the blower fan speed dials and heat dial. (MORE)
Remove wood panel from left and right of console. Remove adjacent screws. open glovebox and squeeze sides to open all of the way. remove bottom screw from glove box. gently pry panel off
To start pull down the glove box and you will find two Phillips screws you will need to undo these. On the drivers side underneath the steering column there is a little pocket pull the pocket down and there are two Phillips screws you will need to unscrew these. Underneath the pocket by …the pedals there are four Phillips screws you will need to unscrew these and the plastic will release. Remove the gear knob by unscrewing,then pull the plastic surround around the gear knob and handbrake.carefully remove the wires for the cigarette lighter then pull panel clear. With a straight screwdriver you will need to remove the heater switch by the stereo carefully,then remove the wires for the heater switch. You will find two Phillips screws behind the heater panel you will need to unscrew these and the fascia will release. You will find two Phillips screws on both sides of the stereo. You will need to unscrew these and the stereo will release. Finally you will need to release the wires and the aerial connection to the back of the stereo,the stereo will release and you will have completed removing a stereo. Congratulations on behalf of the ford centre for succesffully removing a stereo for a fiesta mark 6. How to refit a mk6 fiesta stereo firstly you will need to reconnect the stereo wires back into the stereo making sure that all is working before refitting stereo back into the dash. Write the stereo code on top of the radio for next time and simply push back into the dash.screw the four Phillips screws back into position and check to see if secure. You will need to get the heater panel back into place with the two phillip screws,connect wires for heater panel,push back into correct position. Put the surround around the gear stick back into position and screw gear knob back on. Apply screws back into the little pocket by the steering column and push pocket back into position. Insert four screws down by the pedals which is holding the plastic surround in position. Congratulations you have successfully refitted a fiesta stereo. (MORE)
To remove the dash locate the 7mm hex screws that hold the lower edge of the dash to the car. Remove all visible screws. Pull out the ashtray and remove four more 7mm Hex screws and then unplug the little light assembly. Remove the ashtray drawer. Put the parking brake on, turn the key to on, and mo…ve the shift lever down to L1. Remove the two 7mm hex screws that hold the black instrument cover on, these are located at the top of the instrument cluster. After this has been removed, see another hex screw on the left wall inside the instrument cluster. Remove it as well. The rest of the dash snaps out but you must pull straight towards yourself and do not rock or twist the dash panel . It will snap out. It is very easy to break the little plastic nibs that hold the dash panel on. (MORE)
jack up vehicle and remove wheel.remove 2 bolts at rear,(engine side) of caliper.then lift caliper off rotor,being careful not to stretch or break fluid line.
Remove the two vents, also remove the cigarette lighter on the on side, and then the panel on the other. You will then see two screws from the two panels you just removed, remove those screws and then carefully pull the whole panel off. You will then see four screws holding the radio in. This should… get you what you want. (MORE)
Take it to a dealership. It is very easy to mess up and have to buy more parts.
Begin by removing the decorative stereo retaining cover from your1999 Ford F2 50 pickup truck stereo. Remove the stereo retainingscrews. The stereo will slide out. Remove the wiring harness andthe antenna cable from the back of the stereo.
The dash is held together by screws. Just take out all the screws in the dash, and also the ones in the pads on the window pillars on the side of the dash. You'll need to remove these to get the dash out. You can still get the dash out without removing the pillars, but you may damage your dash tryin…g to squeeze it out. (MORE)
Very simple, take out the 21 scews on the bottom of the dash pading and the panel will lift off.
There are tiny nuts that hold the dash clips in on the other side of the dash via cralwing behind. You have to position yourself under the dash where your feet rest looking up to see.
To remove the dash in 04 Renault Megane Grand scenic you need atool box. The tools in the tool box will help you open and thenremove the dashboard in the 04 Renault Megane Grand scenic.
Removing the door panel on a 1993 F250 is very simple to do. You'llbegin by removing the two screws holding the door panel in place.After the screws are removed, simply pull up on the door panel andit will come off.
After repairing the cause of the code, you can clear it with a scan tool.
The Volvo 1800 dashboard is held in place with for retaining boltsand 12 retaining clips. Remove the retaining bolts and pry outwardon each retaining clip.
If you are attempting to remove the center air vents in the dash panel you will need to: 1. Remove the driver side Cigarette Lighter and the Passenger side Auxiliary plug-in. To do this locate the slot at the bottom on the each of these that will allow you to pop it loose with a screw driver. 2. A…fter removing the panels un plug them and set them aside. You will then see 2 screws, remove these. 3. Carefully pry the panel loose. It will pop off but use gentle force so you do not break the panel. The air vents come off with the panel. From there you can remove them or clean them... (MORE)
You can remove the dashboard from a Mitsubishi Triton by removingthe retaining clips. There are 6 retaining clips. Two clips on eachand of the dashboard and two clips in the middle.
This is a difficult job to do. but it is located usally in the middle next to your foot peddels. good luck I've replaced several.
ok after you take out all the switches and radio, and a/c control unit thingy above the radio, there is 3 bolts holding in the dash, when you open the doors, on the very side of the dash there is one little square plastic peice in the middle on both sides, pop that cover off. the take the screw out,… then there is an airvent on the top of the dash, in the middle, just below the wind shiel, pop that vent cover off then there is one more screw inside there. after you take that screw out the dash should come out pretty easy (MORE)
I have a 2003, so depending on the year this may/may not be relevant... but for mine, I have to literally take everything else off. [I took it off to replace the stock head unit with a new CD player I bought] I believe if I remember correctly I started under the driver's side, there are some b…olts that are in plain sight that will allow the panel under the steering wheel to come free... Then various bolts and screws will need to be removed as well to get the front panel off... I had no help/guide/reference and I did just fine WINGING it lol Good luck, hope that helped. -AD (MORE)
The wrench warming light on the dash of the Ford F250 means thatthere is a mechanical failure on your vehicle.
Try using a hair dryer to get the emblem hot and then peel it off.
Search on www.seatcupra.net - there's a full guide on there (as well as loads of other useful info)
Pull off the silver trim pieces. They're held on by clips. You have to pull really hard and you feel like they'll break but they won't. Make sure you pull from the ends and not the middle. Under the trim pieces are screws that you need to take out.
Why would you be removing the dash. Heater Coil? There is a black box on the passenger side by the firewall. 6 screws and the Heater Coil is in there.
May i ask what you need to remove the dash for? Answer to your question is Tools Required: Flashlight Ratchet or spinner handle 7mm socket 8mm socket Ford DIN radio removal keys ZipLoc bags, cups or some other way to store bolts T15 torx bit (column shift only) Automotive trim remova…l tools (helpful but not necessary). (optional for odometer adjustment) T15 torx bit very flat straight edge ICP=integrated control panel, the radio and HVAC controls. Obviously it's up to you, but taking your ratchet and a 7mm bit to the negative terminal on the battery may be a good idea considering you will be working with electronics. Make sure you have turned off all lights; keys are out of the ignition, before you disconnect the terminal. --First, take the 8mm socket and attack the two screws up under the column They are gold/copper color and near the OBD-II port. You'll feel them if you don't want to bend down at see them. Once you remove them, give the kick panel a few tugs and it should give way. There are some clips holding it on as well. If you are stuck halfway, you might it useful to use the flashlight to look around to see what's holding it on. Next, removing the radio involves using the two Ford DIN radio removal keys Insert both of them into the slot and push them in until they are sticking out about 1/2 to 3/4 inch. Then take your thumbs and push the inside side of each key outwards and start pulling...the ICP should pop right out. Keep pressure on pushing the keys in as well, so the radio doesn't get stuck. You can disconnect the various cables on the back of the unit and set it aside. If your ICP is stuck, try wrapping a small cloth over a small flat head screw driver. Shimmy it between the ICP and the surround to see if you can wiggle the unit out. Floor shift models will find it ideal to put their keys in, turn the key to "RUN" and place the shifter in "1". Floor shift models can also go ahead and tilt the wheel all the way down as well. Now you should see 5 screws holding on your ICP bezel. Take the 7mm socket and remove each of those 5 bolts. There are also two bolts of the same size behind the ashtray. Pull the ashtray out, push down on the tongue, and pull the ashtray out. Remove those 2 screws as well. I used a cup to dump all the screws into. A ZipLoc bag is a good idea as well. Grab around the ICP opening and give a good tug. Plastic clips embedded in the ICP surround and those screws are holding it in place. There is a clip holding the ICP surround next to the kick panel you previously removed, that can be difficult as well. *NOTE* You can also leave the screws in the ashtray attached and fold the ICP surround down, but it's best not to do this multiple times, you can only flex the metal tabs so much. Next, remove the two 7mm bolts in the top of the instrument cluster surround. Now, column shift models (floor shift models have already done this), go ahead and put your key in the ignition, turn it to the "RUN" position and shift down into "1". Also tilt the wheel all the way down. There is one 7MM screw holding that bezel on to the top-left of the ICP surround area . It's right below the row of warning lamps on the far right of the instrument cluster. It holds the upper instrument cluster surround to the dashboard. Now it's time to start pulling off the upper instrument cluster surround (the one with the vents, light switch, etc). A metal trim remover is not as ideal as it can put blemishes in your dash. Harbor Freight sells a kit of 6 plastic trim removal tools for about $5. They won't scratch and harm the soft upper dash as much. Don't be afraid to try griping at different angles, just requires a little pulling. Use the tool accordingly. Once you have it loosened out of the dash, you have one more step before you fully remove it. Unfortunately, the G4 headlight switch knob does not pop off as easily as the G3. You can either stick a small, flathead screwdriver (wrapped in a cloth) in the slot between the dash and the bottom of the light switch. Then start prying away at it. OR (the easier method) Once you have popped out the upper dash trim, you should be able to push the headlight switch out through the opening. Disconnect the cables and set the headlight switch aside. Now you can fully remove the upper dash trim. Start by pulling on the upper part that goes around the instrument cluster. Be warned there is a plastic wedge shapped clip in the middle. It will require bending of the plastic to make it pop out correctly. If you have a leather wrapped wheel, be careful not to scratch or cut the leather (consider wrapping the upper part with a cloth, I sliced mine up in two places the 1st time I did this). The upper dash trim requires manipulating the shifter position (column shift models) and swiveling the trim around the steering column and pulling up on it towards the roof of the car. Eventually it will pop out. Now you should have a good view of your instrument cluster. There are 4 7mm screws holding it in place. The cluster rests on two small knobs on the bottom as well. Go ahead and remove those bolts. There are two, 2" long connectors that go into the back of the cluster. They are at opposite ends near the top of the cluster. They have clips on the top of the connectors Push down on it and uninstall them (not an easy task, but doable. If you are a floor shift model, continue on. Otherwise...if you are a column shift model, this is an ideal time to remove the PRNDD1 indicator. This requires the T15 torx bit. There are two small T15 on opposite ends of the bottom of the PRNDD1 indicator. Be careful and don't let the cable drop behind the dashboard. Go ahead and remove the cluster. If you need to take your keys with you, regardless of shifter position, you can put the car in park and take your keys out. ----------Instrument cluster disassembly and odometer correction----------- This would be a good time to check all the lightbulbs, make sure they are not blown. Flip the cluster over . Take some needle nose pliers, grasp one of the lighted areas (they are marked and color coded). The big black ones are the background lighting, the smaller ones are for the indicator/warning lamps. Twist the holder counter clockwise, then pull up. You should have a view of the light bulb. With the cluster removed. Take your T15 torx bit and remove the 6 bolts holding the plastic face down. With that removed, you can also take off the plastic cluster surround, no screw removal required. *Note*(FLOOR SHIFT) You will have a black plastic plate blocking off the indicator area . This piece should fall out once you remove the 2 additional T15 torx screws holding the black plastic plate in place. The speedometer is fairly easy to remove. This is how it looks with it partially removed . Grasp the areas where the plastic is thicker and begin pulling up. Once it's removed you will see 3 3/16th" screws holding the speedometer together. Loosen them just partially, then flip the speedometer back over. Take a flat edge of some sort (I used the DIN removal keys for a foreign car which have a notch in the middle). Slide it up under the speedometer needle , and start putting pressure on the middle of the needle, tilting the edge against the metal bar that the speedometer needle rests on, up. Placing pressure on the center plastic part of the needle is a good idea. It is not easy removing it, and one must apply even pressure. Be careful to not snap the metal bar. Moving the needle up a little bit in spurts is a good idea. Tada. Once the needle is off, flip the speedometer back over and remove the screws completly and pop out the odometer section. This picture here indicated precisely what you need to do to "update" your mileage . DO NOT roll the numbers opposite of the picture. Otherwise, you will break the odometer and it will not register anymore. You may find it ideal to roll the numbers by placing your finger on the back and the front while pushing it forwards. It will make the process easier. If you want to try adjusting your trip odometer first to feel what it's like. It's also easy to reset incase you screw up (handy ZERO OUT button). Temporarily shake (how classy) your speedometer and put it back in the speedometer head to make sure the digits line up and are viewable. Even 1 click off on a digit will be visible. Once you are satisfied with the lineup, go ahead and reinsert those 3 screws into the rear of the speedometer head. Reinstall the head into the cluster. DO NOT do any other assembly. Yes, the needle is not installed. That's the next part. Bring the cluster back out to your car with the speedometer needle. Go ahead and reinsert the two cables to the rear of the cluster. You can push aside the PRNDD1 indicator in front of or just tempoarily insert it back into the cluster. Connect 2 bolts to hold the cluster in place. Connect your headlight switch and let it hang down. Reconnect your ICP and let it rest on the center console or flip fold storage area. Be advised, that the following method isn't 100% safe, so please follow through at your own risk. Once you are sure you have the cables connected correctly, make sure you have the keys out of the ignition and any lighting or electrical items (that are connected to the car) in the off position. Go ahead and reconnect the battery cable. Based on this chart, go find a road which has mile markers (like an interstate, VERY ideal). This can be also be done with your trip odometer as well. Go ahead and start timing how long it takes you to cover 1 mile. Do this multiple times and once you think you have confirmed the correct speed, go ahead and reinsert the needle (yes while driving at the same speed you measured at. Do not put a lot of force, just enough to fit it snuggly. Drive back to wherever you were working on the car and remove the cluster out of the car. Push the needle back down to a similar height of the gas, tachometer, and other gauges. Pushing it down too far will not make the needle operate smoothly. Stand the cluster up and move the needle up to 50MPH and let it drop. It should drop back down smoothly and come to rest on the peg. If not, you may need to move the needle back up a little bit with that flat edge. Reattach the black plastic bezel. Floor shift models can go ahead and reattach the black plastic plate that blocks off the indicator block. Now would be a good time to clean off any finger prints, dirt, grime, etc that is on the inside of the plastic. Use a SOFT terry cloth and some kind of plastic cleaner. Remember this plastic scratches easily, so be careful. Now attach the clear plastic bezel and insert the T15 torx screws to hold the face back down. Reinsert the PRNDD1 indicator and attach the 2 T15 torx screws. Attach the two 2" cables to the rear of the cluster. Set the cluster down on its pegs and insert the 4 7mm screws. --------END Cluster/Odometer---------- Next, reattach the upper trim panel, inserting the clip in first. As with last time, play around with the shifter in various positions(column shift) and make sure you get that 2" trim piece BEHIND the shifter. Once you have it set in place, go ahead and insert the two screws holding the panel into the upper dash. Reconnect the headlight switch and push it back into the dash. Insert the screw below the instrument cluster. Next reattach the ICP trim surround. Insert those 5 screws. Reinsert the kick panel below and insert the two 8mm screws. Pop back in the the ICP (with the radio DIN tools removed). Congrats, should be all back in place AOK. (MORE)
how to remove a 6 disk player and want to hook up the aux for a mp3 player
I believe there are 5 bolts (7mm) along the top of the dash by the windshield. The gauge cluster needs to come out along with the center council. there are 5 more bolts on the drivers side a few behind the gauge cluster a few on the bottom of the dash on or two will be bigger like 13 mm or so.… there are 4 in the center behind the air/heat/fan control. Then there are about 5 on the pass side close to the same as the drivers side. when all the bolts are out your not even half way done. there are about 4 plastic post with locking clips that need to be removed. Then let the fun begin. There is about 15 looms that need to be removed. clips exc. Have fun. (MORE)
If it's a 7.3L diesel the motor needs to come out!!! After you have done that it's pretty hard to remove it from the block. The silicon used is very very unforgiving and in my experience I half to beat the oil pan off damaging it. I would recommend replacing because you will either bend the lip's so… much that it won't seal properly. Hope this helps. (MORE)
Personally.. given the worth of a GMC, I would use a stick of dynamite to remove the dash.. or refer the vehicle to the local scrap yard.
Do yourself a favor. If you are planning to install an aftermarket radio, buy yourself a radio wiring hardness that will fit into the factory wiring hardness. It will cost under $20.00. And it will save you lost of headaches in the future. No short, or problems... Radio Removal Check relate…d link below (MORE)
You have to remove the top portion of the dash, after removed you'll see tabs on both sides of the handle. Push them in and pull the handle out.
yes but with ingenuity. you can make new brackets that attach to the existing bolt holes then in those brakes mark for the new seats bolt hole. but good strong metal and bolts your just gonna have to measure things out and see how to go about it for you type of seats, since there are different bases… used in different years some easier than others. all doable. (MORE)
I have a manual for this but there are too many steps involved but you would be better off going to your local library and just check out the repair manual so that you can see this for yourself..........
I have a manual for this but there are too many steps involved but you would be better off going to your local library and just check out the repair manual so that you can see this for yourself..........
pull up head rest should be a button push in an hold pull out head rest
1. remove the pillar on the passenger side. 2. remove the glove box door and liner 3. There is a 1/2 in bolt in the bottom corner by the kick panel remove that. 4. Reach up inside the hole left by the glove box liner and there are 3 soft half inch nuts that need to be removed. ( carefully they wi…ll bend. 5. Unbolt the center console and remove 6. Remove the crotch plate and then drop the steering column to the floor 7. There are 2 bolts on the bottom of the dash holding in the cluster bezel remove them 8. Remove the top 4 screws from the bezel and remove 9. There are 4 bolts on the top that can be seen now that the bezel was removed. 10. There is a 1/2 inch bolt on the bottom drivers side remove that. 11. The dash should pop out now and you can start unplugging gauges etc. (MORE)
No, unless they are over 5 years old. In that case I would replace them at the same time. Otherwise just replace the defective battery.