04 dodge ram 1500 4 wheel alignment?
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Answer . \nTHE FOUR WHEEL DRIVE IN YOU TRUCK IS ENGAGED/DISENGAGED BY VACUUM LINES,START ON THE FRONT AXLE.THERE IS A BOX THAT HAS A LEVER INSDE THAT LOCKS THE FRONT END IN AND OUT.YOU WILL SEE THE VACUUM LINES COMING OUT OF IT,JUST TRACE THESE LINES BACK TO THE TOP OF THE TRANNY,CHECKING THAT AL…L SPLICES AND CONNECTIONS ARE GOOD AND THE LINE HAS NO HOLES.I HAD THIS PROBLEM WITH MY DODGE AND FOUND A HOLE RUBBED IN ONE VACUUM LINE WHERE IT GOES ACROSS THE CROSS MEMBER UNDER TRANNY. YOU CAN CHECK FOUR WHEEL DRIVE BY TAKING OFF VACUUM LINE ON FRONT END AND BLOW AIR IN THE LINE COMING OUT OF THAT BOX WITH AN AIR HOSE(20-30 PSI) IF FOUR WHEEL DRIVE ENGAGES THEN YOU HAVE A LEAK OR SOMETHING IN YOUR VACUUM LINES. \n. \n. \n. \nGOOD LUCK,\nROGER PATTON (MORE)
If you have 4wd the bearing is pressed onto to hub and can't be change. The unit is sold as a whole as a bearing hub. The cheapest I have found it was $171 at autozone. same is true for the 1500 2wd, only AutoZone doesn't have it listed! I had to get mine from the dealer. However, the dealer gave m…e a 8-lug hub instead of a 5-lug, but it had the same bearing. (MORE)
Answer . Check to see that the wheels are locked. Answer . \ndon't bother to see if the wheels are locked your truck does not have manual locking hubs. it is an automatic system which uses a vaccuum to engage the front axle. if you look at the back side of the axle you will see a few wires go…ing to the right side. if this system is not engaging the front axle then you will not have four wheel drive as long as you have an open differential in the front. if you have a locker or a limited slip in the front then you should still have 3 wheel drive with the drivers side front being the only one turning. if this isn't the case then your transfer case is probably the culprit.. Answer . \nhttp://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/4X4cad_mechanism.jpg (MORE)
Answer . \ndodge uses vaccuum operated actuators for 4x. there is one on transfer and one on front axle housing. check the one on front axle housing . they are a major problem on all dodges
Answer . \nRemove wheels\nRemove caliper mounting bolts and support caliper\nSlide rotor off\nRemove center hub dust cover\nRemove cotter pin\nRemove slotted washer\nRemove nut\nwiggle hub--outer bearing should fall out\npull off hub\nRemove rear grease seal -- inner bearing should fall out
Why does your 4 wheel drive light come on and it just kicks in and out of 4 wheel drive on your 2000 1500 Dodge Ram Sport?
Answer . \nusually that means you need to have the transfer case replaced in your dodge, u might check your 4x4 actuator, but dodge is notorius for transfers wearing out.
I called MIDAS, for front 2 wheel alignment after changing steering rack. its cost CAD$69plus tax. I would say around $100.
Remove tire. Remove caliper and caliper holder. Remove rotor. Using a 36 MM socket remove center nut and slide hub off spindle. If hub does not come off freely use wheel puller to remove hub.. loosen front wheel lug nuts. Jack up and support front of truck with jack stands ( put them in the middle …so both you can get to both sides of the truck). Remove tire, Remove caliper and caliper holder. romove rotor ( I had to use a 2x4 wedged between rotor and lower controll arm rubber stoper. then started truck and turned the wheel right or left to pop rotor free). remove 3 bolts that hold hub to knuckle. on the next step I used a steel pipe about 1 1/2 foot i think about 2 inches in diamater. wedge it between lower controll arm rubber stoper. then start truck turn the wheel left or right to let power steering pump do the work. It poped it off easy for me both sides in less than 1 hour. put alot of anti seize on the new hubs and bolts in case you have to replace them again. use a torque wrench to tighten all bolts. Great time to replace brakes as long as you are in the area. hope this helps (MORE)
What if your 97 dodge ram 1500 will not shift into 4 wheel drive how do you check the vacuum to your shift motor?
I have the same problem. I found out that my vacum motter is good. I jacked the truck up-all 4 wheels off the ground and jack stands on all 4 corners. on the vacum moter(on the axle) the connection on the pass siide is the vacum, I put a hose on it and sucked- the 2 conections are drivers side is on… , pass side is off. I could engage the 4wheel drive this way. then I traced the vacum line to the back of the trasfer case on the top there is a vacum switcth, 4 lines to it red = black to vacum moter and white +green to the front of thetruck drivers sidebehind valve cover. this is as far as I got, I need someone else on top of the truck as I wiggle the wires to see where they go- also help to remove the air cleaner. its 20degrees outside and My fingrers are frozen. oh, I had no vacum at the switch on top of the transfer case,.. (MORE)
The crankshaft and driveplate have an "offset" bolt pattern. If you look at both youll see the bolt pattern is misaligned intentionally so as the driveplate can only go on there one way.
your four wheel drive actuator/diaphram located on your front axle is sticking. i had this problem also RAYGUIVER
Really not that bad to do. Order of removal. remove wheel. remove brake/ brake assy/caliper. remove wheel bearing OR remove ball joint/tie rod and move spindle out of way to be able to pull axle out. pull u-joint and axle out. replace u joints. assy is reverse of removal
Probably not. The 2500 has an 8 lug wheel, and I think the 1500 has a 5 lug wheel. I might be wrong though.
depending on if you have a small bolt or big bolt pattern wheels. the trucks though might have a larger size. No. the off set is different.
Isn't that a solid rear axle? If so, it just needs to be square to the frame.
It is really a very simple operation considering the bearing, hub and knuckle faceplate are all one unit, convenient but also very costly. Do each wheel bearing one at a time just in case. Remove the wheel. Next unbolt (but do not disconnect from the system or remove from the rotor) the two special …sleeved bolts that retain the brake assembly. Be careful. DO NOT lose or break the bolts or the sleeves unless you live near a dealership or certified Mopar shop. These bolt/sleeves are not impossible to find but can end up being a totally avoidable consumer of several hours, or in my case several days. With the brake assembly disconnected you can move the calipers around on the rotor a little and find good places to put c-clamps on every caliper. Start at the width of the rotor and once you get the brake assembly moved you will have more room to put 2 or 3 more turns on the c-clamps. Just 2 or 3, all you want to do really is hold them in place for the time being and push them back just a hair to ease re installation later. There is enough brake line to conveniently place the brake assembly atop the radius arm. If you wrap the brake assembly directly over the top you can hook the brake calipers on the recurve under the radius arm. It rests very securely in this fashion which is good because those breaks are heavy and they do hurt. Next , remove the center axl nut...using the proper socket... not a punch and hammer you Neanderthal!!! You WILL break off the fins if you do. Removing this nut clears the path to later slide off the bearing assembly without havinng to dismantle your axl. Removal of this nut is only required for the replacement of the bearing-hub assembly. The nut can stay in it's place during the replacement of U joints and/or other axl components. There are easy ways to do big things on these trucks. This is very convenient out in the bush if you enjoy wheeling. It makes trail repairs a snap. Soooo... we are over half way there already so next it is time to remove the three bolts that hold the bearing assembly to the side of the knuckle. If you think that sounds way too easy you are right. This is where it gets tricky. On each of the three sides of the faceplate (the part that bolts to the knuckle) there are three very convenient recesses right along the joint virtually calling you to tend to them with a small pry-bar or large flat head screw driver. These recesses are far from as convenient as they look. As a matter of fact, they are really Sirens of maritime lore drawing inexperienced mechanics to the almost certain doom of their dust shields. Odds are you will stab a few holes in it, bend it, crease it, or if you're really lucky like me, you may even manage to not only puncture your dust shield but also crease, tear, and mangle the shield far beyond re-use or re-pair. Trust me here, this is the important part. The outsides of the triangle that bolt into the knuckle are literally pulled into place rather than pressed in. When you put in the new one and tighten it you will see that those three bolts pull a sizable portion of the bearing assembly into a slightly conical and very tight recess around the outside of the axl hole. If you live in a very vehicle friendly environment the assembly can be removed easily by either threading the three bolts through the backside of the knuckle and tapping them evenly. If you cannot position the bolts in such a manner, or it does not work, remove all three bolts, follow the two step heating procedure listed below. When you have completed the final step (inside is cool, outside is hot) take a three pound sledge, pick a spot on the triangle where you would like to make a dent, and give it enough force to rotate the bearing assembly one inch to either side of center within the knuckle. If the assembly was initially designed so you could not thread the bolts through from behind and pull the bearing assembly out, you should now be able to thread the bolts in from the front. As soon as they bottom out they will begin to push out the knuckle because they are now missing their prospective holes and resting on the face of the knuckle. There are extra steps the worse your environment gets. I'll give my Alaska procedure for the most beaten bruised and abused vehicles out there. My first change up took two days. First, with a cutting torch, put the fire right to the center of the junction, or joint where the bearing assembly and knuckle meet. It may be best to heat from the backside of the knuckle. Get the bearing as hot as you like, don't worry about roasting it, you are replacing it anyway. You probably won't nor do you need to make anything glow but you gotta get it very very hot anyway (the hotter the better so it really doesn't matter if something is glowing unless it is transferring intolerable amounts of heat to a part of the vehicle that you intend to keep.) Allow the center to cool slightly so it can draw in penetrating oil without burning it up. Make sure to use a solvent like graphite free wet oil. Do not use the dry stuff. Any graphite, lithium or other solid and/or non-solvent oil will only burn up, gluing together parts that are already stuck anyways. A thin, quality penetrating oil such as Bardahl, LPS, and only one variety of kroil will be instantly drawn to the source of the heat. If you buy Kroil pay careful attention as to what variety you purchase. most of their products contain various added lubricants and other enrichments. One type though is purely penetrating oil, that is the one you want. As soon as the center is fully cooled and the oil has been drawn in position, remove the three bolts and reposition them to aid in the removal of the bearing assembly. Heat the areas of the knuckle that surround the bearing assembly. This two step heating with penetrating oil will get anything loose. It works wonders on exhaust studs. The initial heating of the bearing assembly causes it to expand within the cooler knuckle portion. What this does is loosens, crushes, and pretty much destroys any and all rust, oxidization or other buildup between the parts helping immensely in freeing up a part that was already pressed into place mechanically BEFORE it was sealed in place permanently by rust... mine enemy, and enemy of mine truck. So on to step two, or is it three, or four? Anyway, making sure that the bearing assembly portion is completely cooled, it is time to heat the knuckle surrounding the still pressed in bearing assembly. As soon as the area around the reasonably cool bearing assembly is hot hot hot (but before the heat transfers to the core and heats the bearing assembly back up again) Either hammer or wrench the three bolts you have prepared, of coarse depending on how you were able to set them up. Anyhow, if all necessary steps are followed, at this point the bearing assemblies should come right out. If you are rough on your equipment now is the time to think ahead a little bit. After the horror of removing my first set of wheel bearings (I begin project number four already next week, every two years it seems) I wanted to make it easier because I knew I would be doing it again. I was certainly right about the again part. In my personal opinion, those damned wheel bearings are the week point in an otherwise indestructible front end. It must be time to reassemble. Clean all bare metal contacting surfaces with a wire wheel and spray them with Ospho. Ospho creates a chemical reaction turning a micro thin outside layer of the steel into Iron Ferrite, one of the hardest natural metals known to man, essentially turning the once bear metal surface into super armor plating. Take a break cause Ospho takes an hour or so to kick off. The coated metal will turn either purple or black depending on how much surface rust, or embedded rust was contaminating the treated metal. Before you put your new assemblies in, get some never-seize... a lot of it... and totally slather the flanges before assembly. Also slather the three bolts that suck in the knuckle (you DO NOT want one of them to break half way through it's removal in a few years, trust me, easy-out's are way cool but they are like a life jacket. Always wanna have one, but never wanna have to use it. Hand tighten the three evenly with a 3/8 drive ratchet until you can no longer draw the flanges together. Re-apply heat once again to the knuckle around the outside then torque all three to a reasonable poundage. MAKE SURE to torque these bolts. They experience a lot of vibration holding together two separate portions of your drive train. If you do not torque them you will almost certainly shake a couple out. If you have properly clamped your brake calipers, re installation of the brakes should be quick and easy. If you do it just right you won't even have to bleed your brakes. Now that the knuckle and bearing assembly are one again and the brakes are reattached, it is time to put back the axl nut. You didn't break it did you? Of coarse not. You're a pro, right? Anyhow, if you didn't notice when you removed the nut, there is a fairly thick and very wide washer which resides behind this nut. If you take the time to look, you will notice that although it will be scratched up a bit, there will be no grooves, pits or other hard core wear on this washer. The meaning of this? The same reason behind using such a soft nut. It does not bear any direct vehicle weight or force from the drive train, and needs to be "there" but no more than finger tight allowing for uninhibited rotation of the wheel. Since these are new bearings, and the entire assembly is hydraulically pressed together the axl nut need only provide "reassurance" until later on when the bearings begin to go. No certified mechanic would ever tell you not to spend 3 or 4 hundred bucks a side on new wheel bearings at the first sign of wobble. I however am not certified and have nothing to gain here so I will tell you... If you catch them going out early, you can throw another washer or two over the axle, heat the outside of the bearing race and thread on a real nut, grade six or so, and crank it down for all your worth. Leave it there until the outside of the race cools, then back it off and replace it with the soft axl nut leaving the extra washers in place. This is not a permanent solution but will definitely buy you some extra time while you save up the astronomical amount of cash required to properly fund this project. Just make sure to pay close attention to the amount of wobble in the front end of your truck, but don't worry about the bearings or what they will do, I can personally vouch for the fact that the wheels just will not fall off, no matter how hard you try, nor will they dislocate to a point that I would consider completely inoperable. The unnatural wobble does have adverse effects on any and every moving part connected to the bearing assembly and given enough time and abuse, it will destroy them too So stay on top of it. Anyhow, that is what I have learned from my experiences of changing bearings I hope it's all helpful to you and I am sorry for being so long winded. I am lonely, bored and the weather is too nasty to go work on my truck. I need a garage badly. (MORE)
remove wheel. remove brakes/caliper/caliper bracket/rotor. remove cotter pin/axle nut. remove 4 bolts from wheel bearing assy. unplug electrical connector for ABS, if has it. tap axle end lightly to dislodge fron wheel bearing assy. may need pry bar and hammer or air chisel to remove wheel bea…ring assy from vehicle. clean orifice well and installation is the opposite (MORE)
2 1/2 bolts and 1 brake line attached behind wheel cylinder, remove them and thats it sometome you may need to hit the cylinder with hammer to knock it lose.
Quite often clicking noise is from the front axle trunion (U-joint). You can see them, one per side, using a tool similar to a long screw driver and gently prying upward is one way to see if there is play in the u-joint. When they get worn they may click, snap or clunk, but usually click in 2WD.
90 decreee! sir.. thankyou. HEY! nexx time u ask question tink bout beeeeeeeeee ahhh man!
the radio in this truck is very simple to remove as you sit in front of the radio in the lower front corner of the dash inside the garbage bag clip the is a Philips head screw remove this screw the rest of the panel is held in with clips you must also remove the bolster pad that's the pad below the …steering colum to alow for removal of dash face without damage then simply remove the 4 screws that the unit in place and remove the unit if this truck has the infinity system it has a separate amp that is accessed through removal of the entir dash (MORE)
probably a vacuum system leak. Older dodge trucks had the front transaxle engage by a vacuum line. Make sure your pump is working, and that there are no leaks. Then it should engage
Not as difficult as you may think. Take a floor jack, put a piece of long 2x4 on the jack, put a piece of cloth on the 2x4. Open the door slightly, take the slack off the hinges by bringing the jack upward. Now, loosen the bolts that connect the door hinge to the body of the truck. Do your back and …forth and up and down adjustment as necessary. This will take some trial and error until you get it right. Now, loosen the bolts that connect the hinge to the door itself. Get a flat screwdriver and hammer the washer loose that is attached to the top bolt for the top hinge and bottom bolt for the lower hinge. Now adjust your door in and out on the top and bottom until satisfied with fitment. Ta Da, you're done. Don't get frustrated. It helps to have a helping hand to manipulate the door whilst you tighten the bolts. (MORE)
no. wrangler is 5 on 5 bolt pattern and full size dodge is 5 on 5.5
You can, but I would not advise it. It will be much less expensive and allot less work to just sell this truck and buy a 4wd.
You will need to remove the dash and HVAC housing to access theheater core. Start with disconnecting the battery. You will then need to recover the Freon from the ac system anddrain the antifreeze. Under the hood you will need special tools to disconnect the aclines at the firewall, remove the heate…r hoses, remove the enginecomputer and remove four nuts that hold the HVAC housing. Inside you will have to remove the trim on the sides of thewindshield, trim at the base of the doors, remove the trim belowthe steering column, remove the steering column, remove the trim ontop of the transmission tunnel, remove the airbag computer, removescrews across the top of the dash and on the sides, unplug numerousconnectors and remove the dash. You can just lay it on top of theseats. The HVAC housing is then held in with two more nuts. Once you get it out you then remove the screws that hold the Heatercore in place. If you want to replace the evaporator coil while youare there ( a good idea ) you need to remove the screws that holdthe top cover on. You reverse all steps to install. Do not forget to fill the antifreeze and warm the engine up beforedriving. You will also need access to an ac vacuum/refill machine torecharge the ac. (MORE)
I had to cut my stock rubber shifter knob off with a pocket knife over a year ago when i was convinced i wanted a new shifter knob for my 2004 dodge ram 1500. Unfortunately, the cheap replacements i bought, although they looked cool weren't worth a crap. I strongly recommend keeping the factory shif…t knob or replacing it with a shift knob that threads directly onto the metal shifter. The allen screw tightening shift knobs you will find at wall mart of your local auto supply store will eventually just loosen, wobble and fall off. (MORE)
no just go buy a new 2009 Dodge Ram 1500 stupid no just go buy a new 2009 Dodge Ram 1500 stupid Yes, both are 5 lug 5 1/2 bolt pattern. Check out a www.dodgetalk.com. Great guys to ask questions, no jerks like the last guy telling you to put down 24 thousand dollars on a new truck, no that's stupid!…! (MORE)
No your need it to tell the coils when to fire with out it you will have no spark
I just replaced the ABS module on my 2001 ram 1500 and it was simple. It took only about 20min and is easy to access.
Yes for sure but you need to know what lug it is 5 lug? 8 lug? but they will yes
The nut size of the dodge RAM is 11/16th. This is mainly for the12th point of the 1998 model of the 1500 from wheel.
remove the wheel remove the brake caliper braket assembly remove rotor.remove the axle shaft to hub nut remove hub retaining bolts.remove hub probably with hammer.big hammer.install new hub reverse proceedure
Look on inside of front wheels, if it has front ABS you should see a wire going to wheel in addition to rigid brake line
Sends a signal to the computer which translates said signal into a different signal and sends it to the speedometer.
Remove the door panel. . Unplug the connector to the power mirror. . Remove the three bolts from the mirror base.
yes plain and simple, you may have to adjust suspension and differentls and you'll need low profile tires
The front bearings on Dodge Rams after 1998 are all sealed and non serviceable. If you have an older Ram with serviceable bearing, every 50000
a wire from the light to the main box must be out. Or the fuse is busted
Check for wires running along the front brake hoses to the wheels. If there are wires along the hoses you have 4 wheel abs.
replace all four ball joints they cost less than $20 a piece. you'll be charged about $125 to put them on.total $205
Look for wiring running out to the front wheel bearings. If there are speed sensors at the front wheels, then you have 4 wheel abs.
Filter service would be about 5 quarts. Dry fill is about 12. Filter service would be about 5 quarts. Dry fill is about 12.
The stock rim size should be either 17" or 20". If you look on the tire itself, you will see some numbers that look similar to this ( 245/70R17). The "R" stands for the size rim. So what ever number comes after the "R", that is the inches of the rim. In this case, it would be a 17" rim.
Not enough information to answer. Please ask a new question about the problem you are having with the 4wd. Not enough information to answer. Please ask a new question about the problem you are having with the 4wd.
They will fit on a 4x4, not on a 2wd. They will fit on a 4x4, not on a 2wd.
Top of rear axle, and it may also have them at the front wheel bearings. Top of rear axle, and it may also have them at the front wheel bearings.
Rear wheel abs was standard. Four wheel was an option. Look for a wheel speed sensor wire going to the passenger side front wheel bearing. If it is there, you have four wheel abs.
No. If you have a manual shifted transfer case (a lever in the floor) the problem is mechanical. You either have a linkage problem or a stripped front axle shaft. If you have an electric shift transfer case you will need to have it checked for codes to know if the problem is there or not.
Starting in 1994 the Ram 1500 could be either two wheel or fourwheel abs. The 1993 and before D150 was rear wheel only.