04 Hyundai Elantra all four brakes are locked up?
I have a Hyundai Elantra GLS 2003 with "anti-lock brakes." I rear ended a car on the highway last night and on recolecting as carefully as I can, I braked, and I believe I braked in time. The car didn't stop. I don't believe it even slowed down appreciably. A friend of mine said that the "anti-lock" mechanism RELEASES the brake when it senses a skid. But what logic there is in not braking immediately after the release (in an automatic pumping motion) escapes me entirely and I braked immediately and I braked hard. I am considering taking Hyundai to court. I'd be grateful for any information or incidents others have experienced.
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What could be the problem if a 1995 Hyundai Elantra has no headlights but has running lights and brake lights?
a mi me paso eso se arregla con solo cambiar el relay de luces y punto ya vuelve las luces a prender....
Why would the central locking reopens by itself when locking a Hyundai Elantra 1600GLS with the remote?
Answer . The lock module is defective,. how do you find the right fuse to deconect the systm to stop the clicking and draingingof the battery
It depends on how "stuck" they are. Penetrating oil (not WD-40) sprayed on and let to sit for a couple of hours will help. You may also need to use a combination of a large "C" clamp, a 2x4 piece of lumber, and/or a rubber mallet, with a liberal application of force. Stocker @ http://www.rdtibur…on.com/ David @ http://votefordavid.blogspot.com (MORE)
1.Remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir2.Loosen the wheel nuts then raise the vehicle and remove wheel3.Push the piston back into the bore to provide room for the new brake pads.A C-clamp can be used to accomplish thisAs the piston is depressed to the bottom of the caliper bore the fluid in …the master cylinder will rise.Make sure is doesnt overflow.If necessary drain off some of the fluid.4.Before removing anything,spray the disc,and brake pads with brake system cleaner don't use compressed air5.remove the caliper mounting bolt,the banjo fitting for the brake hose shouldn't be disconnected unless you are removing the caliper or hose replacement6.Swing the caliper up and secure the caliper up towards the spring with a piece of wire then remove the lower and upper anti-rattle springs.Remove the outer brake pad and shim then remove the inner brake pad ans shim(s)7.Remove and inspect the upper and lower pad retainer clips,the pad retainer clips should fit snugly in the caliper mounting bracket;if they don't,replace them.Apply thin film of high-temperature grease to the retainer8.Apply anti-squel compound to the back of pads install the new inner pad and shim(s) make sure the "ears" on the upper and lower ends of the pad are fully engaged with their respective grooves and the pad retainer clips9.Install the new outer pad and shim if new pad has no shim take the old shimoff the old pad and install it on the new outer pad.Install the upper and lower anti-rattle springs10.Clean off the caliper pin and coat it with high-temperature grease.Lubricate the lower caliper pin with grease too thenswing the caliper down over the disc and new pads (if the piston hits the inner pad depress the piston further into the caliper bore with your c-clamp11.Install the mounting bolt and tighten it to the torque specifications (44-63) 99 and earlier models (51-55)00 and later models12.Put the wheel back on and tighten lug nuts (MORE)
Answer . I've found the brake rotors to be made of some pretty flimsy metal. they wear down quickly and become severly groved no matter how often you replace the pads. i would suggest replacing the rotors and pads. Use an upgraded rotor if possible.. Answer . I had the same issue, you have to… replace both the rotor and the pads. Also, the pads have a vertical gap running through them, when replacing my old ones, I noticed that there is a tendency for a bunch of stuff to gather in there (could be part of the noise). In my issue, I actually had the pad wear completely off shortly after I started to hear that sound, then it was metal on metal.... Answer . The 1997 Elantra I have has noisy brakes too. I asked about it at the dealership. The guy told me that it's just "dirty brakes". Every two weeks or so I rinse them out using a garden hose. It has stopped the noise. - Just a note, if you are doing something like this make sure you have not driven the car within 30 minutes to an hour, if you spray water on the rotors while they are still hot, they will become more brittle. (MORE)
Get your brakes checked. It can be something simple, or it can mean impending doom.
What could cause a Hyundai Elantra after it was in an accident for the engine to rev up by itself to 3000 rpm and then down at all times?
its probably your TPS Switch or your idle control sensor, check engine light will not come on for either take to Hyundai dealership
Answer . \neveryone should have a manual for their vehicle, and the library should have a professional shop manual available in the REFERENCE section...make copies of the right sections...good luck :)
What is wrong when the back brakes on a 2003 Hyundai Elantra make a grating sound and the back tires lock up?
Theres no stopping you now . You have worn completely through the brake lining and the grating that you hear is the metal backing against the drum. They are locking up for the same reason and because the calipers are pushed out too far and are locking out. This happens a lot when people drive wit…h their parking brake on over and over till the pads are gone. You have some expensive repair ahead which could have been avoided with an annual brake check, or just noticing when your car is behaving differently and checking it out, it will always give you signs of trouble before it gets as bad as it is now. (MORE)
Fuel tank empty . Battery dead . Battery terminal loose or corroded . Leaking fuel injector(s),faulty fuel pump,pressure regulator etc . Fuel not reaching fuel rail . Ignition components damp or damaged The list goes on but this is the most common ones how do you tell which one, leaky fuel in…jector? pressure regulator? (MORE)
A size 14 scket or wrench, and a medium sized C clamp to compress piston in caliper
I don't think it can be done by the consumer. From what I have read, the dealer can easily program the car's computer to automatically lock the doors at a certain speed. There are two speeds that can be seleted for the doors to lock, and you will have to specify to the dealer which speed you prefer.…. This procedure should be done at no charge, since it only takes them a few minutes. Try negotiating a free re-program next time you take the car in for an oil change a the dealer. (MORE)
how do you remove the rotors? Removing the front rotors was no problem on my 2005 Hyundai Elantra. The Elantra has two recessed Phillips screws holding each rotor to the hub. Spray the screws with PB penetrating fluid (available at most auto parts stores) and let soak as directed. Then use a han…d impact tool (available at most hardware or tool stores) and hammer to break the screws loose without stripping the Phillips slot. The impact tool has a Phillips screw driver bit on the end of a hand held metal shaft. With the bit in the screw and the tool set to counterclockwise direction, smack the end of the impact tool a time or two with a hammer. The impact will break the screw free. Then remove both screws with a screw driver. After removing the screws, the rotors came right off. (MORE)
There is a butterfly screw that is placed on the lower right hand part of the radiator in front of the right passenger front tire. It unscrews by hand and is easy to do. Remember to dispose of the old coolant properly (poor it into a 2 liter jug and take it to a gas station)
If they locked up because it's cold, then you just have to wait for them to thaw. Don't use a heat gun or anything, as it's mighty close to the gas tank!
if a brake caliper locks up, you can buy a kit to rebuild from any auto store. but the best way is to replace it. they do not cost that much, depending on vehicle,
It turns. There is a special tool for it. You may damage the caliper by pushing straight in.
The rear brakes will lock when there isn't enough weight in the rear of the vehicle, the surface is loose (like a gravel road), or they [the brakes] are applied to heavily. Newer vehicles with anti-lock brake systems (ABS) should not have this problem.
What is the problem if your rear wheels are locked or frozen They wont turn at all. Is it a brake problem 1996 Elantra. Just bought it from an abandoned auction.?
It could be a brake problem, but it could also mean the bearings are shot. I'd be more likely to say it's the bearings, but obviously you need someone mechanically inclined to inspect it to know for sure.
Are you talking about seized brakes? As in the wheels no longer turn because the brakes are stuck? or.......?
From: http://www.2carpros.com/makes/hyundai.htm\nAnswer: It sounds as if the brake light switch needs to be adjusted. It is located on the brake pedal leakage up under the dash.
There is not a specifically designated fuse for the power locks on the underdash fusebox label. The power locks are actually on the sunroof fuse (#15), whether or not the car has a sunroof. Check that fuse and replace if necessary.
THIS METHOD IS FOR THE AUTOMATIC VERSION. (i guess the manual is not too different) . "AT THE BASE OF THE HAND BRAKE LEVER." THE CENTRAL PLASTIC COVER MUST BE REMOVED USUALLY BY UNDOING 6 SCREWS AROUND THE CENTRAL TUNNEL COVER. LEVER OFF THE COVER AROUND THE GEAR SHIFT LEVER, UNCLIP THE SMALL FASC…IA AROUND THE RADIO AT THE BASE OF THIS COVER THERE IS ONE MORE SCREW BEHIND THE FASCIA TO ALLOW THE CENTRAL TUNNEL COVER TO BE REMOVED ONCE THIS SCREW IS UNDONE. THE ADJUSTMENT SHOULD NOW BE ACCESSIBLE. (MORE)
1. Remove the cap from brake fluid reservoir 2. Loosen the lug nuts the raise car and support it securely on jack stands 3. Remove the lug nuts and wheel 4. Maybe be necessary to remove the center console and detach the parking brake cable from lever for more slack to detach it from caliper. 5. Remo…ve the clip and disconnect the parking brake cable from bracket. Remove the two bolts and lift caliper assembly off 6. Remove the brake pads and rotate caliper piston back into caliper (MORE)
All four of your brakes lock up on your 1999 miata not totally lock but drag at times while driving what could be the problem?
The problem will be your brake master cylinder. It is sticking. Get it reconditioned or get a new one fitted.
Many dealers charge any where from $210 - $350. It all depends on the rotors, if they can be machined then it will be toward the lower end.
probably the master cylinder. they are very simple cars and there's not a lot that can cause every wheel to lock up anyways. the master cylinders are super cheap at the parts store and not that hard to install. ask someone at the parts store any questions you may have and they'll help you out. good …luck! (MORE)
\nIf this options enabled it can occur on 20 or 40 kph. Can be enabled by using OBD code scanner
Why would the emergency brake light keep going off and on in a 2000 Hyundai elantra even if you did not pull the lever up?
Its because you are low on brake fluid which means you have a leak or that your brakes are worn down and need to be changed soon.
process is pretty simple on this car : take off wheel ,make sure car is secure has two regular bolt holding assembly on ,loosen bolts from caliper use c - clamp to squeeze piston or turn piston with pliers while applying pressure with c-clamp remove brake pads (simple) reverse to put back tog…ether. (hardest part is getting piston to go in) (MORE)
If brakes lock up on a 1999 Hyundai Sonata there may be a problemwith one or more of the brake components. Improper brake fluidmixture or leaks in the lines will cause the hydraulic calipers tomalfunction. The entire brake system should be checked for thesafety of the driver when dealing with this i…ssue. (MORE)
What would cause my 04 Hyundai Elantra to stall or jerk while driving or rev up to as high as 4000 rpms while stopped?
a bad idle sensor control valve to start with or your egr valve has a vaccum leak
Remove wheel (vehicle properly supported) . remove and compress caliper . remove caliper mounting bracket . there may be screws holding rotor to hub- DO NOT strip them, remove them . You may need to use sledge hammer to hit front of rotor (don't hit lug nut studs) to get it loosened from hub . …remove and replace with new part (change pads too) . Re-install parts in reverse order (with new pads) . Don't overtighten an bolts (MORE)
You need a better question.... If its rusted to the rotor use PB Blaster to free it then replace brake pads. If the caliper piston is frozen then you need to rebuild the caliper.
I just did this yesterday. It is a little different from the fronts in that the caliper will need to be depressed with a pair of needle nose pliers and not a c clamp as on the front. Other than that it is normal 14 mm socket to do the job. The fronts will require a 17 mm socket.
After a brake job on my 1998 Chrysler the the brakes starting locking up , I was on a 3000 mile trip and the only thing that would help was to bleed the brakes off, Nobody could help me , when we got back home i found an old chrysler Machanic , He told me to reach down and pull up the brack pedal un…til it clicked two times , i did and it Fixed the Problem (MORE)
I just changed the front pads and rotors on my 2004 elantra this weekend in order to save some money by doing it myself. A set of brake pads were $20.00 and the rotors were $35.00 a piece. The tools you'll need are a jack, a metric socket set, a ratchet, a #3 Phillips/ crosspoint screw driver, a rub…ber mallet,a jar of anti-seize( the kind with the brush built into the cap), a C-clamp of at least 3inches and a ball peen hammer of at least 16oz. Optional tools include jack stand(2), impact driver, breaker bar, sand paper, wire brush or steel wool, WD-40 or some other penetrating spray, about an 18 inch length of wire and some rags. . Loosen the lug nuts on both front tires. If you don't have the tire iron that came with your vehicle then youll need a 21mm metric socket. Just break the torque and rotate the nut/bolt a half turn. . Set your emergency brake. Jack one side of your vehicle in accordance with your owners manual. If you have a jack stand insert it, set it to the proper height and lower the vehicle onto the jack stand. Jack the other side of your vehicle and insert the other jack stand etc. etc. . Completely loosen and remove all (4) of your lug nuts and remove the tire. My drivers side tire had partially rusted onto my rotor so I had to strike the tire with a rubber mallet while slowly rotating the tire to get it to break free. . set the tire(s) and lug nuts aside. . Next is to remove the two bolts that hold your Caliper body onto your wheel mount/hub. If your bolts are rusted spray them with the WD-40. Wait a couple minutes, spray them again and wait. Get your ratchet and a 17mm socket and remove the lower bolt first. Then loosen your upper bolt and get your piece of wire ready. Remove the upper bolt and attach your piece of wire to the caliper body and hang it off your suspension spring being careful not to damage your break line. You may need a breaker bar to get the caliper mounting bolts out, I had to use ones as my bolts were thoroughly rusted to the caliper body. . Now there are two screws with #3 Phillips head that help hold your rotor in place during installation. Remove these to screws and set them aside. I had a very hard time getting these out with a standard #3 screwdriver but they finally came out. . Next remove your rotor. ( you do not have to remove the cotter pin or castle nut in the center of the rotor as they are not attached to your rotor in any way.) However your rotor will probably have rusted to the mounting hub so grab your rubber mallet and gently strike the rotor around the outer edge along the entire circumference of the rotor. If your rotor still will not come off grab the ball peen hammer and very carefully and with a moderate amount of force strike the raised portion of the rotor( the part where the four mounting bolts come through the rotor) taking care not to hit your mounting bolts. This will break up the rust that has formed on the underside of the rotor where it contacts the mounting hub. . Sand off any rust on the face of your mounting hub and put some anti-seize paste on it. . Put your new rotor onto the mounting hub. Install your two #3 rotor retaining screws in the two small holes near the center of the rotor. If the rotor retaining holes on your new rotor do not match up to the threaded holes on your mounting hub don't panic. These two small screws are really not necessary , they are just used for convenience on the assembly line to hold the rotor up against the mounting hub. If your screw holes didn't line up simply take two of your lug nuts and thread them down all the way until they contact the rotor and hold it the the correct upright position. . Take your brake pads out of your brake caliper( it should still be hanging by the wire) they should come out very easily. . Pop the hood of the car and locate your break fluid reservoir cap. break the seal on the cap and inspect your fluid level. if the fluid is not up into the neck of the reservoir then place the cap over the reservoir filler opening but do not seal the cap down. If the fluid is up into the neck then remove some of the fluid so that it wont spill out into the engine compartment when accomplishing step 12 and place reservoir cap onto the filler opening but don't seal the cap. . Take your 3inch C-clamp and depress the brake piston in the caliper body until it is flush with the caliper body. . If you had rust on your caliper mounting bolt lightly sand off the rust with some fine grit sand paper or wire brush and apply some anti-seize paste. . Install your caliper body back onto the mounting bracket. It'll take some finangaling to get it on and properly aligned with the mounting holes. Install the top bolt first followed by the lower bolt. You will have detached it from the hanging wire to accomplish this step. . I do not know what the proper torque value is for the Caliper mounting bolts. I just tightened them as much as I possibly could. . Grab your ratchet and a 14mm socket and loosen the lower Caliper gate bolt. The caliper gate bolt is the bolt that runs through the rubber gasket/tube on the forward side of the caliper body. . Swing the caliper gate to a full upright position, it will rest in this position on its own. . Install your new brake pads ensuring that the pad with the wear indicator( the little metal prong) is on the inner brake pad slot. If the pads are tight or won't go in you'll need to file down the little tabs on the outside edge of the brake pad body so that they will easily fit into their appropriate slots. Don't go crazy with the file, file a little bit off, check the fit and file some more if needed. . Swing the caliper gate back down into place( it should slide easily into place ) if it will not swing into place re-examine your brake pad installation. Install your lower caliper gate bolt. . If you needed to install the two lug nuts in step 9 to hold the rotor in place then remove these lug nuts. . Mount your tire and install the lug nuts, tightening them enough to hold the tire in the proper upright position. . Properly lower you vehicle back onto the ground. . Repeat step 1-22 on the other side of your vehicle . Once both sets of front brakes are changed and the vehicle is completely lowered onto the ground then completely tighten your lug nuts. I do not know the proper torque value for the lug nuts. Once again I just tightened them as much as I could. . REPLACE THE CAP ON YOUR BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR AND MAKE SURE IT SEALS TIGHTLY. (if you removed any fluid make sure you replace it) . Get in your car and pump the brakes several times to rebuild the hydraulic pressure necessary to operate your brakes. Start your car and test the brakes in your driveway/street before you take it out on the open road. I hope this helps you in replacing your brakes if I get a chance I'll try and attach some photos later on. It took me 5-6hrs to accomplish my brake and rotor change but that includes my lunch break, also all of my components were heavily rusted and it took a long time to get most of my bolts and rotors off. They next time I change them i would estimate a time of about 2hrs if the anti-seize paste I used works. (MORE)
You lose the ability to steer the vehicle, and usually it sends your car into a skid.
Corroded calibers that are rusting and sticking. Moisture is in the brake fluid. Replace the calibers and replace all the brake fluid. It can also be a sticking slide pin on the brake assembly. Check that before replacing the caliber.
Why would the brake pedal go to the floor on your 2000 Hyundai elantra after you changed the master cylinder blead all the lines and you are still getting no pressure to the brakes?
i would check for a leak, and if that is not the case their is air trapped in a line still, close the bleeder valve have someone pump on the brakes 10-15 times, make sure their foot is off the brake pedal then open the bleeder valve, have them push the brake pedal to the floor and hold it then close… the bleeder valve then repeat about 3 time and do the same with all the other tires. and make sure you start at the tire furthest from the master cylinder (MORE)
This problem occurs mostly with disc brakes. Over time moisture can condensate inside the calipers causing rust and the calipers to stick. This can cause excessive brake wear. Ford SUVs are especially prone to caliper problems and the Explorer line often wore out the brake pads within 10k miles..
If it's the same set-up as a 2005 Hyundai Elantra GT with disk brakes all around (my car), then it's pretty simple. When you pull the e-brake lever, it tightens 2 cables which pull individually on a lever that is attached to each caliper. This lever turns the piston inside the caliper which tightens… the pads on the rotor. Thus, your vehicle stays in place (theoretically). If your cable is too loose or your pads are too worn, then the parking brake will not engage. Or in my case, if both brake cables rusted to hell and then snapped, it won't work either. (MORE)
2003 Hyundai Elantra BulbTroubleshooting (check in this order): Â· Check Bulbs Â· Check Relay(s) Â· Check Light Switch(es) Â· Check license plate light bulb and wiring Â· Check trailer hitch wiring harness Â· Check all wiring harnesses and wire Most likely its bad bulb or conn…ection shorting the circuit. Sometimes the license plate light/wiring and/or the trailer hitch is wired into other circuits and can cause issues in other areas. Sometimes its wires grounding out somewhere on the vehicle. See sources and related links below for bulb information. See owner's manual for location and identification of fuses. (MORE)
My 2002 cost $30 per drum (new, or $20 to turn old drum) and the shoes were $36 from Napa Wholesale. I did not get the spring kit as they would have had to order it in but it was $18. Total just shy of $100!
2007 Hyundai Elantra brake light bulb replacement: Purchase the correct replacement brake light bulb(s) first, before disassembling the vehicle. See sources and related links below for replacement brake light bulb information. Then consult your owner's manual for the replacement procedure. As simpl…e as it sounds, the owner's manual is the best place to start for brake light bulb replacement instructions and illustrations. You may want to consider replacing both left and right at the same time in order to keep brightness and color equal (optional). (MORE)
All four wheels locking up? Let's see: If they do this when you're not depressing the brake pedal at all, it is likely that the brake fluid has been contaminated with oil. If so, it will be necessary to replace the master cylinder, fluid reservoir cap, all flexible brake hoses, all calipers, all …wheel cylinders and if it is a wagon the proportioning valve. It is also possible that the brake pedal is not fully returning to the full up position. Check for any obstructions. If it happens when you are depressing the brake pedal: Most likely: -depressing pedal too hard -under-inflated, worn, excessively old, or mismatched tires -faulty shock absorbers and/or springs -excessive looseness in steering/suspension linkages especially strut rod bushings or outer tie rod ends -incorrect wheel alignment -friction material contaminated my exposure to fluids, flood damage (MORE)
2003 Hyundai Elantra brake light bulb lamp replacement: Purchase the correct replacement brake light bulb(s) first, before disassembling the vehicle. See sources and related links below for replacement brake light bulb information. Then consult your owner's manual for the replacement procedure. As …simple as it sounds, the owner's manual is the best place to start for brake light bulb lamp replacement instructions and illustrations. You may want to consider replacing both left and right at the same time in order to keep brightness and color equal (optional). (MORE)
brake booster, try pulling off the vacuume hose to see if it releases pressure off the brakes if u can now spin the tires by hand while vechical is on a jack replace ur brake booster its holding vacuume
there is a fuse panel somewhere by the dash. Your owners manual will have a pic with them numbered and name for what each controls, pull the one for headlights with a fuse puller or needle nose and look closely to see if little wire inside is broken.
1. Remove the cap from brake fluid reservoir 2. Loosen lug nuts, raise the vehicle and support it securely 3. Remove the wheel 4. Using a large C-clamp push the piston back into the caliper 5. Remove the caliper mounting bolt 6. Swing the caliper up and secure the caliper with a piece of wire 7. Rem…ove the lower and upper anti-rattle springs 8. Remove the outer brake pad and shim 9. Remove the inner brake pad and shim (MORE)