02 dodge 1500 4x4 front axle nut torque?
first torque to 136 ft/lbs, spin the hub by hand 5 times, re-torque to 236 ft/lbs
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Answer . '97 sunfire axle nut is 195 ft-lbs. Should be the same for Saturn.
Answer . \n. \nThis information can be found in your owner's manual. If you do not have one, then I suggest you get one. You need an owner's manual to know what items to service and when, and for specifications. You can order one from a dealer, find one at a salvage yard, ebay, or one of these s…ites:\n. \nhttp://www.carownermanual.com/\n. \nhttp://vehicleownersmanual.com/\n. \nhttp://www.vintage-books.com/owncat.htm (MORE)
You Need to Heat The nut up and use a Impact. I had the same problem I broke a breaker bar trying to break it loose. But the i got a torch and impact and it came right off. The Nut Takes a 1 11/16" socket
What would cause the Front-Left wheel to work the lug nuts loose while driving a 1996 Ram 1500 4X4 360?
Answer . If it's alloy wheels you might be missing the steel washer or you might be using the wrong lug nuts. If it's a steel wheel and it was properly tightened, it would seem that someone is messing with your vehicle.
Unbolt tire, pull out cotter pin at end of axle, break nut loose on the end of the shaft. (you might need to put tire back on and lower \truck back down so tire wont rotated when doing this)unbolt the brake caliper, take off rotor, unbolt three bolts from the hub. Use a old socket to hold on the los…sened bolts and pound on the bolt heads until the hub till loosens up and falls off. You might need a chisle to wedge in there. pull shaft out. (MORE)
The rear axle hub nut should be torqued to 260Nm or 192 lb/ft - this applies also to the front axle hub nut.
Head Bolt Torque . 95 ft/lbs using engine oil to lube the bolts. . Head Bolt Torque . 95 ft/lbs using engine oil to lube the bolts.
How do you change rear differential pinion seal on 2003 Dodge quad cab 1500 and the torque specs for pinion nut?
Answer . just got my 2004 ram done at the dealer for 83 bucks. worth the money and have them do it :)
This job is probably best done by a professional, but if you'd liketo take it on, there is an explanatory link in the related links.
it is to be torqued at 185 ft/lb (2wd) and 180 ft/lb (4wd) Source http://www.autowaresgroup.com/resources/documents/spindle_nut_torque_specs.pdf
Answer . i dont know what sizes they are,but the ratios in front and rear diffs will be exactly the same as each other.
According to the GM service manual on a 2000 Cavalier it is 144 lb ft. I would assume this figure is true for 1995-2005 models since major parts like this did not change.
Begin by removing the tire and wheel from your 2002 Dodge. Removethe end of the axle. Remove the wheel bearing nuts. Remove thewheel bearing. Reverse the process to install your new wheelbearing.
Many Dodge trucks have an axle nut size of 44. However, one shouldcheck the owner's manual or a repair manual to be sure.
The 1998 GMC Jimmy front axle shaft torque specification is 60pounds. You want to make sure that you do not over torque the axleshaft, as you can ruin the axle bearing.
You will be able to find this by the tires of your vehicle. You mayneed to get a replacement part if something goes wrong with thevehicle.
The axle nut torque specifications for a 1998 Chevy 4x4 are 165 lbft. The metric specs are 225 N m.
I have a 1997 dodge ram 1500 4x4 with a Dana 44 front axle i need to change the axle u-joints but i cant find out the size of the catle hub nut nor the 12 point knuckle to hub bolts. HELP?
I have just had my axles out of my 2000 ram 1500 and the sisze of the axle nut is 1-11/16 and the hub to knuckle bolts are 14 mm 12 point hope this helps. Go to rockauto.com they have what you need. you do not need to remove the nut. take off the brake calb. there are three bolts behind where …the calb is bolted on . remove the bolts and the shaft should pull out. i will try and look up the web site for step by step directions any problems write me at email@example.com (MORE)
The 2001 Forrester front drive axle nut torque specification is 90 pounds. The front drive axle nut should be torqued in 45 pound intervals.
iF YOU GO TO ANY aDVANCE aUTO pARTS STORE, THEY HAVE DIAGRAMS OF THE U-JOINTS
The axle nut torque for an Acura Legend is 206/285 ft-lbs/Num. Foran Audi 100 Quattro, it is 147/200 ft-lbs/Num. For a BMW 5 SeriesRWD, it is 221/300 ft-lbs/Num; and for a Buick Enclave, it is151/205 ft-lbs/Num.
It is really a very simple operation considering the bearing, hub and knuckle faceplate are all one unit, convenient but also very costly. Do each wheel bearing one at a time just in case. Remove the wheel. Next unbolt (but do not disconnect from the system or remove from the rotor) the two special …sleeved bolts that retain the brake assembly. Be careful. DO NOT lose or break the bolts or the sleeves unless you live near a dealership or certified Mopar shop. These bolt/sleeves are not impossible to find but can end up being a totally avoidable consumer of several hours, or in my case several days. With the brake assembly disconnected you can move the calipers around on the rotor a little and find good places to put c-clamps on every caliper. Start at the width of the rotor and once you get the brake assembly moved you will have more room to put 2 or 3 more turns on the c-clamps. Just 2 or 3, all you want to do really is hold them in place for the time being and push them back just a hair to ease re installation later. There is enough brake line to conveniently place the brake assembly atop the radius arm. If you wrap the brake assembly directly over the top you can hook the brake calipers on the recurve under the radius arm. It rests very securely in this fashion which is good because those breaks are heavy and they do hurt. Next , remove the center axl nut...using the proper socket... not a punch and hammer you Neanderthal!!! You WILL break off the fins if you do. Removing this nut clears the path to later slide off the bearing assembly without havinng to dismantle your axl. Removal of this nut is only required for the replacement of the bearing-hub assembly. The nut can stay in it's place during the replacement of U joints and/or other axl components. There are easy ways to do big things on these trucks. This is very convenient out in the bush if you enjoy wheeling. It makes trail repairs a snap. Soooo... we are over half way there already so next it is time to remove the three bolts that hold the bearing assembly to the side of the knuckle. If you think that sounds way too easy you are right. This is where it gets tricky. On each of the three sides of the faceplate (the part that bolts to the knuckle) there are three very convenient recesses right along the joint virtually calling you to tend to them with a small pry-bar or large flat head screw driver. These recesses are far from as convenient as they look. As a matter of fact, they are really Sirens of maritime lore drawing inexperienced mechanics to the almost certain doom of their dust shields. Odds are you will stab a few holes in it, bend it, crease it, or if you're really lucky like me, you may even manage to not only puncture your dust shield but also crease, tear, and mangle the shield far beyond re-use or re-pair. Trust me here, this is the important part. The outsides of the triangle that bolt into the knuckle are literally pulled into place rather than pressed in. When you put in the new one and tighten it you will see that those three bolts pull a sizable portion of the bearing assembly into a slightly conical and very tight recess around the outside of the axl hole. If you live in a very vehicle friendly environment the assembly can be removed easily by either threading the three bolts through the backside of the knuckle and tapping them evenly. If you cannot position the bolts in such a manner, or it does not work, remove all three bolts, follow the two step heating procedure listed below. When you have completed the final step (inside is cool, outside is hot) take a three pound sledge, pick a spot on the triangle where you would like to make a dent, and give it enough force to rotate the bearing assembly one inch to either side of center within the knuckle. If the assembly was initially designed so you could not thread the bolts through from behind and pull the bearing assembly out, you should now be able to thread the bolts in from the front. As soon as they bottom out they will begin to push out the knuckle because they are now missing their prospective holes and resting on the face of the knuckle. There are extra steps the worse your environment gets. I'll give my Alaska procedure for the most beaten bruised and abused vehicles out there. My first change up took two days. First, with a cutting torch, put the fire right to the center of the junction, or joint where the bearing assembly and knuckle meet. It may be best to heat from the backside of the knuckle. Get the bearing as hot as you like, don't worry about roasting it, you are replacing it anyway. You probably won't nor do you need to make anything glow but you gotta get it very very hot anyway (the hotter the better so it really doesn't matter if something is glowing unless it is transferring intolerable amounts of heat to a part of the vehicle that you intend to keep.) Allow the center to cool slightly so it can draw in penetrating oil without burning it up. Make sure to use a solvent like graphite free wet oil. Do not use the dry stuff. Any graphite, lithium or other solid and/or non-solvent oil will only burn up, gluing together parts that are already stuck anyways. A thin, quality penetrating oil such as Bardahl, LPS, and only one variety of kroil will be instantly drawn to the source of the heat. If you buy Kroil pay careful attention as to what variety you purchase. most of their products contain various added lubricants and other enrichments. One type though is purely penetrating oil, that is the one you want. As soon as the center is fully cooled and the oil has been drawn in position, remove the three bolts and reposition them to aid in the removal of the bearing assembly. Heat the areas of the knuckle that surround the bearing assembly. This two step heating with penetrating oil will get anything loose. It works wonders on exhaust studs. The initial heating of the bearing assembly causes it to expand within the cooler knuckle portion. What this does is loosens, crushes, and pretty much destroys any and all rust, oxidization or other buildup between the parts helping immensely in freeing up a part that was already pressed into place mechanically BEFORE it was sealed in place permanently by rust... mine enemy, and enemy of mine truck. So on to step two, or is it three, or four? Anyway, making sure that the bearing assembly portion is completely cooled, it is time to heat the knuckle surrounding the still pressed in bearing assembly. As soon as the area around the reasonably cool bearing assembly is hot hot hot (but before the heat transfers to the core and heats the bearing assembly back up again) Either hammer or wrench the three bolts you have prepared, of coarse depending on how you were able to set them up. Anyhow, if all necessary steps are followed, at this point the bearing assemblies should come right out. If you are rough on your equipment now is the time to think ahead a little bit. After the horror of removing my first set of wheel bearings (I begin project number four already next week, every two years it seems) I wanted to make it easier because I knew I would be doing it again. I was certainly right about the again part. In my personal opinion, those damned wheel bearings are the week point in an otherwise indestructible front end. It must be time to reassemble. Clean all bare metal contacting surfaces with a wire wheel and spray them with Ospho. Ospho creates a chemical reaction turning a micro thin outside layer of the steel into Iron Ferrite, one of the hardest natural metals known to man, essentially turning the once bear metal surface into super armor plating. Take a break cause Ospho takes an hour or so to kick off. The coated metal will turn either purple or black depending on how much surface rust, or embedded rust was contaminating the treated metal. Before you put your new assemblies in, get some never-seize... a lot of it... and totally slather the flanges before assembly. Also slather the three bolts that suck in the knuckle (you DO NOT want one of them to break half way through it's removal in a few years, trust me, easy-out's are way cool but they are like a life jacket. Always wanna have one, but never wanna have to use it. Hand tighten the three evenly with a 3/8 drive ratchet until you can no longer draw the flanges together. Re-apply heat once again to the knuckle around the outside then torque all three to a reasonable poundage. MAKE SURE to torque these bolts. They experience a lot of vibration holding together two separate portions of your drive train. If you do not torque them you will almost certainly shake a couple out. If you have properly clamped your brake calipers, re installation of the brakes should be quick and easy. If you do it just right you won't even have to bleed your brakes. Now that the knuckle and bearing assembly are one again and the brakes are reattached, it is time to put back the axl nut. You didn't break it did you? Of coarse not. You're a pro, right? Anyhow, if you didn't notice when you removed the nut, there is a fairly thick and very wide washer which resides behind this nut. If you take the time to look, you will notice that although it will be scratched up a bit, there will be no grooves, pits or other hard core wear on this washer. The meaning of this? The same reason behind using such a soft nut. It does not bear any direct vehicle weight or force from the drive train, and needs to be "there" but no more than finger tight allowing for uninhibited rotation of the wheel. Since these are new bearings, and the entire assembly is hydraulically pressed together the axl nut need only provide "reassurance" until later on when the bearings begin to go. No certified mechanic would ever tell you not to spend 3 or 4 hundred bucks a side on new wheel bearings at the first sign of wobble. I however am not certified and have nothing to gain here so I will tell you... If you catch them going out early, you can throw another washer or two over the axle, heat the outside of the bearing race and thread on a real nut, grade six or so, and crank it down for all your worth. Leave it there until the outside of the race cools, then back it off and replace it with the soft axl nut leaving the extra washers in place. This is not a permanent solution but will definitely buy you some extra time while you save up the astronomical amount of cash required to properly fund this project. Just make sure to pay close attention to the amount of wobble in the front end of your truck, but don't worry about the bearings or what they will do, I can personally vouch for the fact that the wheels just will not fall off, no matter how hard you try, nor will they dislocate to a point that I would consider completely inoperable. The unnatural wobble does have adverse effects on any and every moving part connected to the bearing assembly and given enough time and abuse, it will destroy them too So stay on top of it. Anyhow, that is what I have learned from my experiences of changing bearings I hope it's all helpful to you and I am sorry for being so long winded. I am lonely, bored and the weather is too nasty to go work on my truck. I need a garage badly. (MORE)
I have a 1999 Dodge 2500 4WD, and the answer is no. It's just stubborn. I used a breaker bar and 3ton jack to break it loose.
hi if your mechanical ability is high then go and buy a haynes manual for your truck,this is not a simple job,you will be removeing brake,seperating front end parts.this should be looked at by someone that is a pro.
A diagram of the front axle of a 1997 Dodge ram pickup 4 x 4 can befound at most Dodge dealerships. Many auto-parts stores will havethe diagram.
'How do you remove a front axle shaft in a 1996 Dodge Can you remove axle with out removing the axle nut'?
Yes you can, The axle will stay attached to the hub in that situation though. After the brakes are off you will see bolts on the rear of the knuckle holding hub on. Lossen bolts about 1/4 in. Using an old socket start to hammer on the bolts until the hub comes loose. This can be a challenge.
You can take the hub and shaft out at the same time with out removing the nut. just remove the wheel bearing hub assembly bolts (should be three) and then pull the hub assembly out, they will stay together.
I think that you might refurring to the nut that holds the brake drum on. really there is no real torquing... when I take that nut off and put it on I just use plyers and tighten enough by hand and then make sure that it flows freely and not to tight... the carter pin holds and stuff holds the nut i…n place and that washer (cant think of what the water is called) but that keeps the nut from turning as well. (MORE)
Dana 44 or a spicer 60. If it has the axle disconnect vacuum servo on the tube it's a Dana.
192 ft-lbs according to a National Bearing publication. The nut is recommended to be changed with the bearing (dealer only part).
Dana 50 Front Axle. Observe the following torques;. Left and Right drive axles-to-cross member: 120-150 ft. lbs. (163-203 Nm). Axle arm-to-radius arm: 180-240 ft. lbs. (244-325 Nm). Coil spring insulator: 30-70 ft. lbs. (41-95 Nm). Upper spring retainer: 13-18 ft. lbs. (18-24 Nm). -------------…----------------------------------. Dana 60 Front Axle. Observe the following torques;. Drive shaft-to-flange: 15-20 ft. lbs. (20-27 Nm). Track bar nut and bolt: 160-200 ft. lbs. (217-271 Nm). Stabilizer link nut: 20-30 ft. lbs. (27-41 Nm). Stabilizer bar U-bolt: 50-65 ft. lbs. (68-88 Nm). Spindle connecting rod-to-knuckle: 70-100 ft. lbs. (95-136 Nm). Front spring U-bolt: 95-100 ft. lbs. (115-136 Nm) (MORE)
On my 94 it's 35 ft lbs then back off to fit key in slot. I'm not sure about the 95 model because it's a different setup. Anybody else?
Need to know what side you are working on. The driver side just snaps in. It has a lock ring on the end of the axel shaft. If you took the passanger side axel out of the housing, Then a big flat shim has fallen out on you and down in the housing. You will have to take the axel housing tube loose… from the center Differential. Theres 4-5 bolts beside the 4x4 Actuator That needs removed to take apart. That will let the housing that the axel goes in come off, I forgot theres 2 bolts that hold the housing to the frame, Remove those too. Then find washer and put heavy grease on it and put it back in place, It goes over the end of the axel shaft. Good luck (MORE)
Just did this literally two days ago. It's not that bad really. Once you get the rotor off just undo the bolts holding the upper control ARM and the tie rod (one bolt each). You mite need an air hammer to get that axle loose tho. Good luck
\nJust fill it until the lube runs out the fill hole. It is now full.
\nRemove the rear U-Joint and be very careful not to loose caps or any needle bearings. Uses lock rings to hold it in place. Tape it together with duck tape. Now pull the drive shaft out of the transmission and remove the front U-Joint from the driveshaft and replace it. Reinstall in reverse order.… (MORE)
Remove tire/caliper/rotor/tie rod/ball joint/pull steering arm back/ pull cv axle back towards diff and remove from steering arm/then just pull it straight out ofintermdiate shaft/thats it. u're gonna need a BIG puller and a bigger hammer to remove the hub bearing. Don't be surprised if you destroy… the bearing in the process. and if it still doesnt come out you might end up having to change the stub shaft coming out of the differential as well as the CV shaft simply because the two will not separate from each other..... and also If there is no room to slide them out together, then you will need to cut the shaft to give yourself some clearance. (MORE)
The nut size of the dodge RAM is 11/16th. This is mainly for the12th point of the 1998 model of the 1500 from wheel.
pull the wheel, caliper, and rotor , on the back of the hub there are 3 bolts remove and the hub and axle will slide out. Very easy to do, should only take 30-45 min your first time. I break a axle everytime i got 4x4, no I'm able to change one in 15-20 min.
You torque the hub nut to 160-170 Inch lbs. While rotating the hub continuously. Then back the nut off 1/2 turn. Rotate the axel several turns (this will set the bearing properly.) Then Torque the nut to 108-144 Inch lbs.
Depends on engine size, year, and driving habits. 10mpg on a 5.9L V8 with an aggressive driver to 20 mpg on a 5.7L Hemi
front drive shaft, how do you get the yoke out of the transfore case to replace the ceal?
I have a 1999 dodge durango 4x4. oil was shooting out through a hose that came on the front axle I know that oil has
200 ft lbs then adjust the nut to the closest hole for the new cotter pin make sure u spin the tires while torquing the nut
First FWD means Front Wheel Drive, but I assume you mean Four Wheel Drive, the torque is 175 ft/lbs then tighten till you can fit the cotter pin into the hole.
It is technically known as the 205mm IFS (Independent front suspension), but is more commonly known as the Chrysler 8 inch.
What is the torque spec's of the front brake rotor and the front axle nut and the front brake caliper bolts of a 2005 harley davidson ultra classic?
2005 ultra classic Tighten the axle nut to a torque value of 50-55 foot pounds Tighten the slider caps to a torque value of (62-132 in-lbs) 5-11 ft-lbs Tighten Front brake caliper torque 28-38 ft lbs
look under the truck and then look in the front theres the axle its that esay
Depends on the year and what size Ram. All 1994-2001 four wheel drive trucks used a 1 11/16 inch socket ot remove the front axle shaft nut. 2002-current 2500 and 3500 still use the same socket. 2002-current 1500 trucks use a 1 3/8
What do you use to remove a over torqued and rounded off lug nut off 1995 dodge 1500 single cab truck?
You can try welding another lug to it, or you might have to cut the stud and replace it, if worst comes to worst.