01 Honda accord check engine is on?
There is a problem with the emissions system. Have the ECU scanned with a OBD2 scan tool. This will tell you the fault code that has been set. With this code you can start to diagnose the problem.
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DAVID, AS YOU KNOW THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON FOR A VARIETY OF REASONS. A DIAGNOSTIC WOULD NEED TO BE RUN TO SEE WHAT CODES ARE COMING UP. ASSUMING THAT YOU HAVE DONE THI…S AND MADE THE NECESSARY REPAIRS AT A SHOP, THEN THE SHOP SHOULD HAVE RESET THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. IF YOU DID THE REPAIRS YOURSELF YOU CAN DISCONNECT THE BATTERY(BOTH POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE TERMINALS) LET IT SIT FOR ABOUT 15-30 MINUTES. IF YOU RECONNECT THE BATTERY AND START THE ENGINE AND THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES BACK ON, THEN ALL OF THE NECESSARY REPAIRS HAVE NOT BEEN DONE. All you have to do is disconnect the Negative battery terminal. It is not necessary to disconnect both. Once you've disconnected the terminal, let the car sit with no power for a few minutes, then reconnect the battery terminal. Your light should not come on, unless your engine sensors throw another code through your car's computer. Caution: I was tempted to disable the "engine check" light in my 2001 Odyssey. Last time it came on I spent over $100 on emmission control. However I had the dealer run the diagnostics on it again. Diagnostics showed I needed a new transmission! I had the transmission replaced at NO CHARGE under an extended warranty thatI was unaware of. Lesson? Better Safe Than Sorry. You DO NOT need to disconnect the battery terminals. All you have to do is turn the key to the "on" position (not running, but so that the radio etc. come on) and hold the trip reset button for about 15-20 seconds. KEEP IN MIND - that the light could be an indication of needed service as opposed to just coming on based on mileage. To be clear, you must hold in the trip odometer reset button and THEN turn the key to the "on" position. If you prefer the battery disconnect method, be sure you have your radio code handy to re-initiate. according to factory repair manuals all you have to do is remove the radio fuse for 10 seconds. the fuse is in the engine compartment fuse box, 15 amper (blue) Ok, a couple things real quick. The MAINTENANCE LIGHT can be reset by holding down the odometer while turning the key. You can reset the CHECK ENGINE LAMP (technically the "MIL"...stands for "MALFUNCTION Indicator Lamp") by removing the power supply to the "ECU"...stands for "Engine Control Unit" or "Electronic Control Unit" depending on the manufacturer. This will clear all OBDII (On-Board Diagnostic II) codes without question (I'm assuming we are working on a 1996 or newer vehicle when I reference the OBDII, but even if not the codes will still be cleared.) This can be definitely be accomplished by removing the negative cable for a couple minutes and probably by removing the radio fuse like the manual says (in Hondas the two general share that constant power source for memory functions such as fault codes, radio stations, and whatnot.) If you are doing this to get through an emissions inspection where they hook up to the computer via the OBDII connector you'll have to wait anywhere from 5 to 50 miles, rarely longer, for the computer to run a series of diagnostic self checks on the different systems. Until that happens the inspection will not even initiate because, guess what, the EPA that mandates the OBDII system is not a bunch of idiots. They require manufacturers to meet specific requirements when programming these rascals and the self-checks (known technically as "Readiness Monitors") are one of them. For this type of inspection two (2) of these "Readiness Monitors" can be left unchecked when inspected on vehicles up to 1999, from 2000 on only one (1) "Readiness Monitor" is allowed to be unchecked for the inspection to initialize. Also, you should know that when a diagnostic query is made on that computer a block of time before and after the error is stored. This block contains all of the vehicles streaming telemetric data at the time of the fault(s). When you erase the code you erase that data too. This information is extremely helpful to anyone trying to diagnose your problem. They'll be able to tell if the engine was hot or cold, what your speed was, what RPM range, how much air and how much fuel the engine was using, the position of the throttle, how hot the air coming into the engine was, and a lot of other stuff that they'll definitely be billing you for should they have to take the time to recreate the problem to regather a large enough data set to make a proper diagnosis. Should you clear the codes, they'll be able to see that too, by looking at how many key starts/warm up cycles and how many "Readiness Monitor" checks have occurred since the car had the battery disconnected/codes cleared. The mechanic in me gets thoroughly irritated when Jiffy Lube or some parts store clears the code after checking it and not knowing how to fix it or even what it is besides what the scan tool in their hand or their computer tells them the description is...and not the slightest clue how to properly go behind the computer and manually check the systems (after all car computers can go bad too and report false positives). It'd be ashame to replace even just a hundred dollars worth of sensor(s) only to find out you actually needed a $200-$1200 computer [don't know the year]). When the customer comes to me with only a code in their hand and says I need this fixed, I just shake my head...okay, all you have is the code guess the entire system will have to be checked instead of keying in on specifics within the fault data set. This can be most frustrating to a mechanic, but the businessman in me just wants to laugh...SURE, Heck yeah, must be a tough one, if Joe Bob Partscounterman with his high dollar scan tool can't figure it out then we'll probably have to spend awhile on it (I really don't gouge in this scenario, but there are plenty who do...by the way Joe Bob's scan tool is what we call a generic scanner and probably cost the store about $300-$600...pretty expensive right, NOPE a shop that services your type car should have something a bit more specific to your car, such as our $2200+ Teradyne Tester w/ Honda software )...an hour & half or three later in real time, if you come out on the lucky side of this I tell you, you need a set of plugs and somebody misrouted a vacuum hose and you just wasted good money and hours of our time (mainly trying to get it to act up/set a code/etc.), and yes, believe it or not most mechanics do feel like it's a waste of time regardless of whether or not you're paying. On the flip side of this I come back to you and say yeah your torque converter is starting to come apart and clogged up some of the fluid passageways in your transmission which led to some of the other internal components burning up and we'll need to take it out, tear it down, and make a list...but it shouldn't be too bad though considering there doesn't seem to be any obvious symptoms, all the gears stills function so the hardparts should be good. At this point, the customer asks how much and I tell him around a $1000.00 since we caught it early. EARLY! they exclaim...$1000.00! they cry, but it doesn't feel like anything's wrong, and I tell them, "That's because ingenius Honda engineers programmed an alternate shift pattern for events such as this to save the hard parts. That way it can make it to the shop when the "MIL" comes on without doing huge amounts of damage running the bill up even higher for a full overhaul. Generally we'd just have to replace the torque converter for $400-$600, but this one must have come apart too fast and now we're dealing with internals," I say. IT'S AT THIS EXACT MOMENT THAT EVERY SHOP OWNER/MECHANIC/SERVICE WRITER/ETC. CAN SEE IT IN THEIR FACE, THEY WANT TO KICK THEMSELVES SO HARD IN THE . "WHY DID I PUT IT OFF! WHAT DOES A PARTS GUY AT SUCH & SUCH AUTO PARTS KNOW ABOUT THE INSIDE OF A TRANSMISSION, IF HE'S SO SMART HE'D BE DOING THIS NOT THAT" AND IT'S AT THIS EXACT MOMENT THAT EVERY ONE OF US CAN'T HELP BUT FEEL WHAT THE GERMANS CALL "SCHADENFREUDE" (look it up). It's the truth, a human being in that scenario might outwardly show some empathy or at least professionlism, but inside the mischievous little voice in our heads is laughing it's rear-end off. Unless you personally unplugged something and right after that the light came on, don't disconnect the battery to reset the light, especially if this is for a state inspection and it's due this month. By the way I used the transmission example because I just dealt with this for fella on his Toyota 4Runner. He was so man he was going to take me to court because he thought I was trying to rip him off. I ended up making a deal with him. He'd take it to a dealer (I'm an independent), have them check it, and if I was wrong I'd give him a refund and reimburse him for the tow to the dealer. After the dealer looked at it and told him they didn't rebuild transmissions he was informed he'd need to buy another for well over $2,000. Needless to say we did that for him, and now his little around town beater (again his description) is in having an entire list (mostly his list LOL) done to it. It's actually pretty funny, in my experience it's situations like these that make the best customers. WOW - you all are making it so difficult. All you do is take a key and push the little black indent part, and light goes back to green.
Answer . \nlight means ther is a sensor gone bad what you got to do is there is an on board diegnostic on the passenger side lower floor panel there is a blue clip turn eve…ry thing off and install a jumper wire then turn key till the check engine light comes on again and count the times it blinks 1 long blink and the how ever manny short blinks mean two digit code like 16 or like thatthen ask a parts store for the code meanings. Answer . \nPull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self test the computer runs the car through, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related.
Answer . \nThe computer has detected a problem with the emissions controls. Have the computer scanned with a scan tool. Most auto parts stores will do this for free. Once y…ou get the code, it will lead you to the probable cause of the problem.
Answer . \nMost check engine lights can be reset if you know the pinout on the diagnostic\nplug by doing a simple jumping of terminals . To find out which terminals are inv…olved consult a repair manual or if you have an Advance Auto Parts store nearby they can hook up the diagnostic computer and reset the check engine light.\nOne other industry standard is to disconnect the battery , and then reconnect it\n. You may have to leave it disconnected for 20 minutes or so to reset the light,\nAgain check a service manual- the library is a good place to find one without \nhaving to buy one(they are expensive) . Motors or Chiltons are usually pretty \ngood quality and informative. The reset procedure is usually in there but may take a bit of searching to find . Hope this helps. Answer . Use an OBD (On Board Diagnostic) scanner to find out what's wrong. Fix the problem then the light should go off. It's often an oxygen sensor or something equally trivial.. Answer . \nBy taking it to a professional and have the problem that the computer has detected repaired.. Answer . pull the "Backup/ACC" fuse from the main panel under the hood. Wait 15-30 secs and replace it. However, this will reset all of your accessories as well and you will need to re-enter your security code on the radio to get it to work.. Answer . \nPull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active.\n. \nThe " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances by the public. I am sure I will revise this as time goes on, as it is an in-depth understanding for the public. It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem with the EMISSION SYSTEM only. Emission system being the pollution control system. Don't get a hard on against it as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say that about 7% of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have 17 different computers) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they can be vastly different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place. \nAfter 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ vastly, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights that are set based on a pre-set mileage.. Answer . \nTake the positive cabel off your battery for 1 min then put it back on it will reset the light
Answer . \nAny one of hundreds of reasons....Take it to an auto parts store such as Autozone that will check it for free
Answer There is a leak in the EVAP Emission Control System Leak Detected (Control Canister System), many people advise that a loose gas cap is the reason. They are incorrect,… loose gas caps produce P1456, EVAP Emission Control System Leak Detected (Fuel Tank System). The P1457 typically means that you will need to have your vent shut valve on the canister under the car checked. Not something a casual weekend warrior can do. There are several checks that are done to narrow the problem, including vacuum leak tests and electrical tests. Pretty much a professional mechanic job. Check out this link for more information http://www.obd-codes.com An over- 65 weekend warrior certainly can replace the vent shut valve.* The hardest part was getting the car properly jacked and supported. I used the center jack point in the rear and two jack stands. For tools, you need 10mm and 12mm socket wrenches, vise-grip pliers, and a Phillips screwdriver. A 10-mm crowfoot or very short socket will be helpful. There are three bolts (10-mm head) that hold the canister to the car. There are two bolts (12-mm head) that hold a parking break cable bracket. Remove all 5 bolts. Undoing the parking brake cable bracket allows easier access to the canister. The rear-most bolt on the canister is under a cross brace. That is where the crowfoot or shortened socket comes in handy. After the bolts are removed, drop the canister down so you can access the two screws holding the shut valve in place. The screws are probably rusted. Use vise-grips (use ones with teeth on the jaws, if available) to grab the screws by the sides and get them started to turn. A little penetrating oil helped too. Of course, you need to disconnect the electrical connector, which is a typical pinch and pull connector, and the rubber connecting tube. Replace the new valve and reassemble. The valve does not come with the two mounting screws. My Honda dealer was kind enough to give them to me, including new washers. *The correct name of the valve is as stated above. Autozone had no listing for the shut valve. It has the identical valve, same manufacturer and same Denso number, but calls it a bypass valve. I used the Honda part number and my local store was able to cross check it. The price difference was significant. John4153
With a scan tool, or if you don't have one, see the FAQ in the "related links", question number 12.
the dealership has the codes also depending on which state your in theres Advace auto parts the have a book that has the codes the port to check the codes is under the dash
The check engine light may be flashing on a 1996 Honda Accord if atiming issue is detected or oil pressure is low. The exact causecan be determined by connecting an OBDII code… reader.
\ngo to your local auto parts store and tell them you need codes cleared. Or buy a code grabber and do it yourself.
Light can only be reset by the use of diagnostic equipment.
Must be reset with an OBD2 scan tool after the problem is repaired.
In Honda Accord
Remove backup fuse from underhood fuse box
In Check Engine Light
The check engine light (service engine soon) comes on and stays on when a problem is detected by the self diagnosis system of your vehicle. Generally, the problem is in the em…issions or something that is affecting the effectiveness of the emissions, but other causes can trigger the light to come on, too. To determine the cause, the vehicle will need to be taken to AutoZone or a shop that has an OBD2 scanner, or for 1995 and earlier models, an OBD1 scanner, While a scanner will not give you the magic answer, it will give you a code that narrows down the problem area.
In Check Engine Light
If your check engine light is blinking that means an engine cylinder misfire has been detected . You can drive it in for repair , just avoid any rapid aceleration or deceler…ation because you can damage the catalytic converter
In Honda Accord
Have the ECU scanned with an OBD2 scan tool and then repair the problem. You can then try to reset the ECU by removing the negative battery cable for 5 minutes which may or ma…y not reset the ECU. If it does not, it will have to be reset with the scan tool.
In Honda Accord
Turn on the ignition and look at the instruments. You will see the Check Engine Light come on for a few seconds and then go off. If you see the light it is working.